Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Beer Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backs against the Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blacksmith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
CWI T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clutch and Cruise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coors Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Delirium Tremens T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Detoxification T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Equis T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Joey Baggadonuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichenbrau T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pat Tricks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pats' Blue Ribbon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pegasus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Redrum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rockaholic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercharged T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sword T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turbocharge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Lunatic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Meschinelli, Dave Hough, and Chuck Turner (5/6/83)
Page Views: 8,609 total · 63/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 24, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


126 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

At the far left end of the Lower Beer Walls is a left leaning finger crack that splits an otherwise polished face--This is Rockaholic.

Start on low hands and smeary feet to the left of the crack below the obvious finger crack. Easily climb up and right, pulling into the fissure using a few high feet out left and a good hand hold out right.

From here, the beta for the route is simple: Try to keep your left foot pasted to the polished left face while fighting through the rattly and flaired fingercrack.

When the crack ends, move left around the steep block and up to the slung tree above.

Location

Far left end of the Lower Beer Walls.

Protection

Gear to a red Camalot. Many small pieces in the red, yellow, and green Alien sizes.

Photos

doligo
  5.8
doligo  
  5.8
The bouldery start is often wet, but the crack stays dry. It has nice "cheater" constrictions for your fingers.

BETA ALERT: you can also layback the crack with better feet on the face to the right, which feels at least a grade easier but gear placements are blind. Jul 6, 2010
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
We were TR'ing Equis 5.7 (about 15 feet right) and successfully linked up the beginning 30-40 feet of Rockaholic (minor swing), traversing right on horizontal cracks to join Equis for its best section(s). Got the best of both climbs (IMO) on top rope with no gear directionals needed. Fun, fun, fun. Apr 25, 2011
Also started on this route then traversed right to join Equis ... makes for a fun climb. Jul 8, 2011
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
Did this route last week and that tree is beyond dead. Topped out. Later in the day saw a group of 6 or so TR'ing off the tree. One of you locals should cut the rap slings before someone gets hurt. Sep 27, 2011
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
Anchor is now two nice bolts. Apr 24, 2012
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Weird start but once you get in the crack great finger jams and a few hand jams to the top. May 17, 2012
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
The bolts that were the anchor next to the tree have been chopped. Just a heads up. Nov 12, 2012
Will Stat
  5.8
Will Stat  
  5.8
This was my first 5.8 trad lead when I was 14 years old. I had no clue what route it was but it was so beautiful I had to climb it. I only had half a dozen cams at the time so I held on and placed small stoppers all through the crux section. It's an excellent climb and one of my favorite leads. Jul 19, 2013
Dom R
Estes Park, CO
 
Dom R   Estes Park, CO
 
What's the news on that anchor that was built in the alcove the dead tree is in? The pitons and nut seem pretty solid to me but I haven't actually used it. Climbed the route for the first time last spring and my partner decided to pass it up and go to the top. I climbed it again this past weekend and when I got to it I decided again to pass it up only because the new guide book says the cruddy top-out is necessary. I don't know how long it has been there either. I did see the party after us top-roping off of it though. Sep 29, 2014
Jim Lawyer    
 
Regarding the anchor: The original route went to the top. A convenience anchor appeared on the tree after the "good" climbing, and was used for many years until the tree died. A bolted anchor briefly appeared in place of the tree, and was removed. The gear anchor appeared more recently, and didn't make it into the guidebook. Sometimes these things are moving targets.

Did you really go to the top because the guidebook said to? (Btw, it actually doesn't say that.) Sep 29, 2014
Jim Lawyer    
 
As of July 2017, the junky gear anchor has been replaced with a bolt anchor. Jul 27, 2017
Chad Cowan
Aurora, CO
 
Chad Cowan   Aurora, CO
 
Very fun climb. Make sure the first diagonal crack is protected well for your second in case of a fall. I'm glad I did, my girlfriend fell following me up the climb and she is lucky I placed a cam where I did. If I had not it would have been a ground fall for sure. Jan 4, 2018

More About Rockaholic

Printer-Friendly