Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Beer Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backs against the Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blacksmith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
CWI T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clutch and Cruise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coors Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Delirium Tremens T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Detoxification T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Equis T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joey Baggadonuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichenbrau T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pat Tricks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pats' Blue Ribbon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pegasus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Redrum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rockaholic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercharged T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sword T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turbocharge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Lunatic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Patrick Munn and Patrick Purcell, 1993
Page Views: 145 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A hidden route, but one not to be missed.

Pat Tricks begins below a low bolt that protects the routes' technical crux. Move up the wall on hidden incuts and tricky moves to a solution pocket/bucket. Take a quick rest then finish off the technical crux by smearing out to a shallow left-facing flake/corner to your left. Protect this and take a plum line straight up passing a couple large horizontals and small overlaps.

From the small cedar, continue up the face past several more committing moves to the top. The route can be done as one, long, mega-pitch, or split into two by stopping at the small cedar with the ratty tat.

If you practice the art of sport climbing, you will enjoy this crimpy crux, if not, slip it into 5th gear and cruise through it...fast!

Location

To the left of the Pats' Blue Ribbon Cave is a vertical Wall with several routes on it. Pat Tricks is marked by a low bolt and is the route closest to the sport route Pats' Blue Ribbon.

Protection

One bolt, and single rack up to a #2 Camalot.

Photos

worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
 
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
 
Good route with two distinct cruxes. Less sustained than blacksmith but the upper crux is def. In the 11 range and u couldnt figure it out. Next time I guess Oct 6, 2013
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
I see the description still hasn't changed, so I'll add another little nudge. The climbing after the cedar holds a lot of what the first have had in store, hard climbing with some good commitment.
The last bolt isn't to bad to reach up and clip, and then down climb to suss out the crux roof. Some one at the base mentioned that a foot hold had brooken coming out of the roof. They said that it made it considerably harder then .10+. It's likely that that just got into my head, but it felt considerably harder then .10+. That being said, you're basically on TR at that point, And the one hard move can easily be pulled through.
This route is awesome! Jul 5, 2010
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
Thanks, Jim. I'll amend the route description ASAP. Good seeing ya today at Pitchoff. Aug 1, 2009
Jim Lawyer    
 
This route doesn't stop at the cedar. It continues up through a roof with a bolt (crux, difficult clip). Jul 31, 2009