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Routes in Goosehead

Bill, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Chung King Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Credibility Gap T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Warmed Over S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Pitchfork, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Glide Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goosed But Smilin' T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incubator, The V9 7C
Morgue, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scrambled Egg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeezing The Lemmon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visitors, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yuck Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zombie Flanders S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FFA (with direct start): John Steiger, John Sherman, 1984
Page Views: 1,440 total, 17/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Nov 23, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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This long crack line was originally climbed in 1969 by a young Dave Baker (the soon-to-be owner of the Summit Hut) and Kem Johnson (who moved to Australia years ago) using pins for aid. Neglected for years until 1980, it went free at 5.11b by Herb North and John Fowler, who added a bolt to face climb into the lower part of the crack from the opening moves of Chung King Corner and found a free escape from the original aid line near the top of the pitch. They named their version of the route Glide Path, which has since stuck. That same year, though, Phoenicians Jim Waugh, Brad Smith (before he moved to Tucson), and Jim Zahn climbed the North-Fowler start then freed the upper part, adding another 5.11 section. Four years later, the Verm and I managed to nab the entire crack free from its start, which added the free crux and creates an action-packed mixed bolt and gear climb that I've always thought comes close to Histoplasmosis in quality and difficulty.

If I recall, a number of the bolts were quarter-inchers, some that could be backed up with gear and consequently ignored and others that, well, you'd take a leap a faith when clipping. Not sure what's there now. Although the bad bolts may warrant only three stars for this line, if it were cleaned up I'm fairly sure it would be a Lemmon classic.


The next line left of Chung King Corner. It's the obvious right leaning crack system with a number of bolts.


Standard Tucson trad rack (include micros).


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Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
What's the deal with the start? Is the bottom section of the crack now supposed to go on gear, or are the bolts simply waiting to be replaced? May 8, 2015
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Thanks John! It really is a fantastic route.

I can ask Dave about those bolt locations just to make sure. Nov 30, 2013
John Steiger  
Cool to see this is getting some traffic. Re the direct start, from my perspective, I think you should feel free to ignore the old bolt placements (now holes) and engineer it with new bolts to maximize the free climbing experience; those old bolts were in a less than ideal location. I'm fairly sure DB won't mind. Keep it up Geir. Nov 30, 2013
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
This is a tremendous route. Terrific climbing from start to finish, great pro (sometimes requiring a little bit of finesse), great rock, and aesthetic. We used stoppers, doubles to .75 Camalot, one #1, and one #2.

The 1/4" bolts on the 5.11 part of the climb were replaced (as Alex noted above). Thanks to whoever did this replacement as they took the time to remove the old bolt and drill out the old hole. The new bolts are 1/2" wedge bolts so I imagine they will be bomber for decades.

The three old bolts for the 5.12 start are gone. Presumably the folks that upgraded the rest of the hardware removed these at the same time as there are three clean holes where they used to be. It looks like it will be a piece of cake to finish the replacement. Nov 28, 2013
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
I was out at Knight's Wall on Sunday and checked this line out. It appears the bolts (at least those visible from the ground) have been replaced with nice new 3/8 or 1/2 inch fatties with shiny new hangers. Nov 27, 2012