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Routes in Goosehead

Bill, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Chung King Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Credibility Gap T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Warmed Over S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Pitchfork, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Glide Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goosed But Smilin' T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incubator, The V9 7C
Morgue, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scrambled Egg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeezing The Lemmon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visitors, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yuck Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zombie Flanders S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Grossmann, John Steiger,'76
Page Views: 802 total, 7/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 11, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Crux is down low and I remember being scared when I lead it (pre micro cams). After the early moves it eases up a bit. Second pitch is probably R I did not do it.

Location

The farthest left route on the east face of the goosehead.

Protection

Fixed pin and standard rack.

Photos

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Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b
Pretty strenuous crux, but really cool movement. I was able to get a good #1 in below the pin and a #2 Metolius above it. I linked p1 and p2, which made for a pretty exciting route overall, and I wouldn't really recommend doing it this way unless you like big runouts on slab with horrible rope drag.If you do link the two, save a draw for the top of the last pitch. I didn't have any left and ended up running a nut through the bolt for pro. May 8, 2015
Finally repointed this today after hanging on it once 30 years ago. The pin is still there but a little bush was hiding it. Down climbed and jumped on it a number of times to test it. A good purple Camalot goes in just below it so have a second one for the slot a body length above the pin. Found it to be tenuous and challenging and a little spooky as I don't really trust fixed pins much. Didn't do the second pitch as we didn't look at the topo so we ended up finishing on the top of Credibility Gap which was fun. Apr 11, 2010
MJW
Boise, ID
 
MJW   Boise, ID
 
Long time since I've been on this beaut. I remember a 1-1.5 rigid friend above the pin. The first 25-30ft is in your face. Cool crux moves and great crack climbing above. You can step right into Cred Gap/finish or belay. Second pitch is classic Mt.Lemmon funkness. Step out left to the airy crack system and head to the top. Feels like Stronghold climbing. Probably no harder than 10b but you will hold on hard. Mar 12, 2010