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Routes in Goosehead

Bill, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Chung King Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Credibility Gap T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Warmed Over S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Pitchfork, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Glide Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goosed But Smilin' T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incubator, The V9 7C
Morgue, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scrambled Egg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeezing The Lemmon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visitors, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yuck Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zombie Flanders S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: L var: Steve Grossman, Dennis Coffee, Dave Baker Center var. Todd Skinner & Steve Grossman R var. John Steiger & Steve Grossman
Page Views: 2,202 total · 17/month
Shared By: Bladrey Chan on Apr 29, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

I did the center variation. Delicate start over bulge into crack. Follow fantastic slightly larger than finger crack up to bolt. Clip the bolt and choose your own adventure. I've heard the left variation might be slightly easier, but don't quote me on that! Regardless, this is an amazing route, great gear & hard climbing. Continue upwards, eventually traversing right.

Location

This route is on the east face of Goosehead (i.e. the longer side). To get here either scramble down the death-gully or rap down easily accesible anchors. To find these, walk to back of goose's head, look left and walk under a tree to a flat area. Looking out across the gully through rocks and you should see Knight's wall. The chains are just up and to your right. The route you're rapping down is Chun King Corner and Glide Path slightly to the left.

Protection

I brought a double rack of camalots up to #2 and plugged at least one of each size. Long runners might help depending on variation. I used the rap bolts as the anchor and clipped a directional bolt for the belay.

Photos

Lucas gibson
Tucson, Arizona
  5.10d
Lucas gibson   Tucson, Arizona
  5.10d
At the end of the center crack, I placed a good finger cam and then headed left up the featured face. I likely left a chalk trail so If you get on the route soon and finish this way, I recommend saving a number 3 for a bomber slot near the top. The climbing at the end is easy but runout. Great long single pitch of lemmon crack. Nov 12, 2017
Dj telle
Tucson, Arizona
  5.10c/d
Dj telle   Tucson, Arizona
  5.10c/d
I really enjoyed this route. Fun technical cracks and awesome moves. one of my fav trad lines on lemmon. Aug 11, 2014
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
This is an excellent route. When climbing the center variation, we used stoppers, doubles to #2 Camalot, and one #3 Camalot. Superb climbing on great rock. Nov 28, 2013

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