5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.4 from 10 votes
|Type:||Sport, 40 ft (12 m)|
|FA:||Unknown. Rebolted and cleaned by Kemper Brightman and Luke Bertelsen|
|Page Views:||219 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Kemper Brightman on Feb 7, 2022 · Updates|
|Admins:||adrian montano, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen|
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Listed in Squeezing the Lemmon under the illustrious title "Unknown 5.8" this route featured unique joys such as rusty SMC hangers and a death defying traverse to clip the first bolt. Thanks to our producers at Extreme Route Makeover, this Rusty Relic was transformed into a Logical Lead, with the addition of modern bolts and a dedicated lower-off anchor.
Stem from the belay area to the first bolt, then commit to the face and continue through alligator skin plates and in-cut rails, to a crux sequence at 2/3 height. The holds remain positive here, but a couple tenuous body positions keep it interesting. The climbing begins to ease as you pass the last bolt.
This route might be as good as watching HGTV at a dumpy motel on a road trip. Whatever that means...
This is the right hand route of the two that start in the "outdoor shower" alcove across from the Golden Egg. The route starts in a chimney and climbs the featured face above. Tailgate Tango is to the left.