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Unknown 5.8?
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.4 from 10
votes
Routes in Goosehead
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Bill, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 |
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Chung King Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Credibility Gap T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Death Warmed Over S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Devil's Pitchfork, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Friend of the Devil S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Glide Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Golden Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Good for a Gander S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Goosed But Smilin' T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Incubator, The V8 7B |
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Morgue, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Running from the Devil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scrambled Egg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sport Sandwich T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Squeezing The Lemmon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tailgate Tango S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown 5.8? S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Visitors, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Yuck Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zombie Flanders S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Unknown. Rebolted and cleaned by Kemper Brightman and Luke Bertelsen |
| Page Views: | 219 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Kemper Brightman on Feb 7, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montano, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Listed in Squeezing the Lemmon under the illustrious title "Unknown 5.8" this route featured unique joys such as rusty SMC hangers and a death defying traverse to clip the first bolt. Thanks to our producers at Extreme Route Makeover, this Rusty Relic was transformed into a Logical Lead, with the addition of modern bolts and a dedicated lower-off anchor.
Stem from the belay area to the first bolt, then commit to the face and continue through alligator skin plates and in-cut rails, to a crux sequence at 2/3 height. The holds remain positive here, but a couple tenuous body positions keep it interesting. The climbing begins to ease as you pass the last bolt.
This route might be as good as watching HGTV at a dumpy motel on a road trip. Whatever that means...
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