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Routes in Goosehead

Bill, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Chung King Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Credibility Gap T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Warmed Over S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Pitchfork, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Glide Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goosed But Smilin' T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incubator, The V9 7C
Morgue, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scrambled Egg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeezing The Lemmon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visitors, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yuck Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zombie Flanders S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Eric Scully, Rob Edwards
Page Views: 1,227 total, 10/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Warning: Must like small and relatively sharp holds to climb anywhere on the west face of the Goosehead. The crux may be the dynamic start if you are short otherwise maybe a longish move between quartz bands. Fun moves, but not a great climb to lap unless you really like pain.

Location

First route to the right of Scrambled Egg on the West face proper.

Protection

4 bolts plus chain anchors.

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
This one packs it in to be sure. IMO, this is the quintessential Mt. Lemmon "Your fingers will hate you for this" route.

Comparing this to the routes on Knights Wall is a stretch I think. It is shorter than the gym walls. I personally think Knights of the Wrong Tissue is harder. John, I think you rated Knights 11d. I think its harder than Holey Moley, Time the Avenger, and several other 12a climbs in the area. Nov 1, 2014
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
First round; first minute. This climb is relentless crimps from the dyno start until the forth bolt. To overcome I precisely mapped where to place my index fingers on multiple holds. Zombie Flanders is painful, short, and unforgiving yet kind-of awesome in a sadistic sense.

This line felt significantly harder than neighboring routes of the same grade such as Knights of the Wrong Tissue, Gneiss Boys, and Squeezing The Lemmon. Nov 1, 2014