Running from the Devil

Who knows when this was last climbed, but here is another neglected line that is well worth tying in for. This one has a full dose of Mt. Lemmon spice, but if you're feeling less adventurous one can easily toss a top rope from above and enjoy a more casual lap.  

The Climber's Guide to Sabino Canyon and Mount Lemmon Highway comically mentions that ascentionists should "Take off half a grade with arboreal help." or climb "potentially ankle-twisting boulder moves off the ground." The tree in question is hardly helpful when used in combination with the sparse and friable wall features near the original start - a combination of hand drawn topos from three guidebook versions and another with a photo that shows an oak tree with a topo line through it did not help me confidently locate the actual start of this climb......thus I started climbing just left of The Devil's Pitchfork, utilizing the first bolt of Friend of the Devil before traversing left to the high and lone original bolt.  Bouldery moves lead to the first bolt. Cross the shallow chimney and establish into the intermittent cracks on the steep face above. The rock is stellar, the feet are smeary, and the cracks are those of the shallow Mt. Lemmon varietal which often climb more like face holds and don't always make for inspired gear placements.

I really enjoyed this climb.  The original "5.11-" rating (or 5.10 if you use the tree....?) should be taken with a strong grain of salt.  I'd wager that this climb is likely to give most 5.12 gym climbers a solid ass beating, and I personally think it's still a bit of a sandbag at solid 5.11.  For me it's inspiring to know that the was climbed 40 years ago.

The single protection bolt and top anchor were replaced in the spring of 2022.

Start on the face between the chimney and The Devil's Pitchfork.  Trend up and left once you cross the chimney. 

One bolt (the first above the chimney), finger to hand sized gear, chains with rings.