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Routes in Goosehead

Bill, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Chung King Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Credibility Gap T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Warmed Over S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Pitchfork, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Glide Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goosed But Smilin' T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incubator, The V9 7C
Morgue, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scrambled Egg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeezing The Lemmon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visitors, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yuck Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zombie Flanders S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Eric Scully
Page Views: 1,628 total, 27/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Nov 27, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Death Warmed Over is one of the best bouldery routes on Mount Lemmon. Follow thin and rounded edges through tensiony and powerful moves. A hard finish guards the chains. The moves are unusual and very fun. A quickdraw (or even a single biner) on the last bolt blocks a crucial hold, so I would recommend leaving this bolt unclipped.

Though short, the route is sustained, and there aren't any "easy" moves to speak of. The rock, while sharp, isn't as bad as it might seem from the ground, though the skin-exfoliating nature of the holds may keep you from putting in attempts too many times per day. It is best to wait until the weather cools down for optimal temperatures, but the route does get morning shade for attempts in less-optimal times of the year.

Location

Between Zombie Flanders and The Morgue (the project listed in Squeezing the Lemmon II) on the west face of the Goosehead.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor, though the last bolt is an inch or two above a critical hold for the finish and is best skipped on redpoint. Having taken the fall, it is safe, if a little long should your belayer be pulled off the ground.

Photos

Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
There are only two or three edges that would really qualify as "credit cards" but they are incut and decently deep. The crux holds are thinner but more rounded than my idea of a credit card. Zombie Flanders has a credit card if I recall which might be your memory as it is right next door. All of the crimps are thin but none of them are the skin-shredding monsters one might think of when looking at the apparently blankness of this face of the Goosehead. Nov 29, 2012
jbak  
Good job Alex, maybe I'll put this route on my to-do list again. I had it worked out 10-15 years ago but broke a hold that was crucial to my beta and lost interest. I could move that mis-placed bolt too.

I remember that one of the holds was like pulling on a credit-card edge. Nov 29, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Nice send Alex!! Nov 28, 2012
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
I took the rating from STL, never heard from Scully how hard it was. It is probably hard 13a or pretty spot on 13a/b in my opinion.

EDIT: Found Scully's entry on rockclimbing.com as 13a. The grade is my opinion of its difficulty. Nov 28, 2012
jbak  
And I was thinking... "3 stars ?!"

It's probably 15 years since I touched this route, but my impression was more like 2-ish stars. Maybe I should get on it again... the approach ain't bad !

Is it really a solid 13 ? I thought Scully rated it 13-. Nov 28, 2012
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
Fair enough. I felt hesitant about not giving it 4 stars after calling it "one of the best" routes of its type, but I would tend to agree that it is a little short to call a 4 star classic. Nov 28, 2012
Nice going Alex. Looks like you are tearing it up. I have a question for you about giving this 35 ft. long route 4 stars. If you find a route that is just like this one but 70 feet long is DWO still a 4 star route? Nov 28, 2012