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Routes in Goosehead

Bill, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Chung King Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Credibility Gap T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Warmed Over S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Pitchfork, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Glide Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goosed But Smilin' T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incubator, The V9 7C
Morgue, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scrambled Egg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeezing The Lemmon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visitors, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yuck Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zombie Flanders S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Hathaway, Adam Rose, & Jay Ladin (1988)
Page Views: 392 total, 11/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Oct 31, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A rarely climbed route that has the novelty of sharing its name with the guidebook. Start from a precarious and potentially height-dependent fixed log and lemon-like pinch. Recite the mantra that a weighted foot never slips and launch into a series of blind edges and sidepulls. At the third bolt the route eases as the face becomes less-than-vertical. Delicately clip two more bolts before reaching the chains. The difficulty significantly eases after a reconnaissance run.

Squeezing The Lemmon surpassed my expectations with fabulous sequences. Unfortunately the juice runs dry all to fast, leaving one thirsty for more.

Location

Squeezing The Lemmon is on the east face of the Goosehead. Devil's Pitchfork is to the left and Seamingly is to the right. Squeezing The Lemmon is the only fully bolted line in the vicinity.

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

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