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Routes in Goosehead

Bill, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Chung King Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Credibility Gap T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Warmed Over S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Pitchfork, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Glide Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goosed But Smilin' T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incubator, The V9 7C
Morgue, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scrambled Egg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeezing The Lemmon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visitors, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yuck Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zombie Flanders S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Eric Scully/Rob Edwards, 1995
Page Views: 265 total, 7/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Oct 28, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Yuck Crack climbs the steep face of the Goosehead through a weakness to the right of The Morgue. From the start, surf big holds through weird, balancy moves to a jug/ledge rest at the third bolt. At this point, engage some strange climbing up the crumbly crack feature to a large edge left of the crack. Clip the bolt, then work your feet up and span to the obvious jug feature out right. Hard-to-read face climbing leads past one more bolt to the chains.

This route is somewhat crumbly as it doesn't appear to receive a lot of traffic. I also don't think the jug feature will remain intact for too many more ascents, which is a shame because the moves out to it and off of it are pretty cool. The bottom half of the route is quite funky.

Location

First route right of The Morgue (starting off the next tier down).

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor (a vertically-equalized Fixe ring/chain setup).

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