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Routes in Goosehead

Bill, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Chung King Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Credibility Gap T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Warmed Over S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Pitchfork, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Glide Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goosed But Smilin' T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incubator, The V9 7C
Morgue, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scrambled Egg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeezing The Lemmon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visitors, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yuck Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zombie Flanders S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 6,719 ft
GPS: 32.375, -110.704 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,560 total · 89/month
Shared By: zach on May 30, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick


40-90 foot climbs with pretty good exposure. Right next to the road.

Getting There

One mile past the Windy Point vista. Easy to find, looks like a goose's head.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Goosehead

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Just did the aid route under the bill...What an awesome bolt ladder. I would say if your bored and you want to practice some aid this is a great spot to practice. The bolts are in very good condition, all the death bolts have been replaced. Major props to whomever hand drilled these bolts...That must have been tiring. Btw, you can easily free climb the first part up to the belay ledge and you can do it in one pitch with minimal rope drag. Mar 1, 2010
missoula, mt
joshf   missoula, mt
Thanks, sounds like a lot of fun or a bad day... Nov 17, 2007
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Steiger guide says roughly: "The Bill" - 5.6 A1-A4 (depending on whether the old bolts shear off). Bolt ladder then some easy free climbing. A couple of aid moves to get to the ledge where the bolt ladder starts. Nov 15, 2007
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Last and only time I checked a bolt ladder of old quarter-inchers was still there. IIRC they sort of ran out before the actual top-out, or maybe I just couldn't see the last ones. Just getting to the ladder seemed like a slightly dicey traverse too? I'll check if the Steiger guide has anything on it..

You can see them as you drive by if you look closely enough (not recommended for the driver hehe) Nov 14, 2007
missoula, mt
joshf   missoula, mt
does anybody know about the line that goes through the roof? I've heard there is an old aid route there... Nov 14, 2007
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
All right ! Masters of the obscure.

If you are looking at MUSTANG RANCH on the PHALLUS, go down to the toe of the formation, then continue on around a bit to the SE side. There is a crack system leading up to the ridge. The start is fairly strenuous (5.9 ?) jamming up these cracks to gain the ridge. Then you basically solo the ridge (one nut I think) to gain the summit. I don't remember any bolts at all. A justly obscure route and not a place to take your beginner friends. Jun 12, 2007
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
Had the same experience there several year's ago. Could not locate any moderate on the "Phallus." Jun 12, 2007
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
SQII lists a bolted 5.7 on the Phallus. I was down there today and I am pretty sure I was at the Phallus because I saw two routes that looked like 11's and shared the same start on the side facing the highway, but the slabby ridge where I thought the 7 was didn't seem to have any trace of a route on it. Is there a misprint or was it chopped... maybe it is on one of the other formations??? I didn't really see places for gear on that ridge. Jun 12, 2007

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