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Routes in Goosehead

Bill, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Chung King Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Credibility Gap T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Warmed Over S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Pitchfork, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Glide Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goosed But Smilin' T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incubator, The V9 7C
Morgue, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scrambled Egg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeezing The Lemmon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visitors, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yuck Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zombie Flanders S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Eric Scully
Page Views: 1,452 total, 28/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Sep 14, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

King line of the Goosehead and the 2nd established 5.14- on Mount Lemmon. The story of the first ascent is quite epic and is recounted by Andrew Bisharat in his article "Restoring Eric Scully".

Immediately difficult moves lead into a viciously powerful boulder problem around bolt 4 involving slopers, a 2 finger crimp and an enormous throw to a jug. Clip bolt 5 and fight through more thin and powerful moves to the chains. A discerning eye will notice that, outside of two holds reinforced with glue, this route is all natural (a rarity for hard climbs in the Tucson area).

No longer unrepeated. After many years without a repeat, The Morgue saw a second and third ascent in January 2014.

Location

To the right of Death Warmed Over on the west face of the Goosehead. This is the line listed as "8. Project" in Squeezing the Lemmon II.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. The first two bolts are meant to be clipped off the ground with the first serving to keep the rope out of the way.

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Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Outside of two holds reinforced with glue, the route is all natural.....EXCEPT for the fact that the route ISN'T all natural. So much for ethics. Great points, Marcy. May 21, 2015
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
For what it's worth- the glued jug that marks the end of the crux has broken a couple times (once before I did it and then again later) and is now much less juggy. The route is still probably the same grade (~13d) but might be a little stiffer as it harder to recover after the crux for the top section. The conditions on the route matter a LOT- just a couple degrees or percent humidity hotter/more humid and the crux boulder problem gains V grades very quickly. The crux holds are sticky in very cold temps but are an absolute nightmare to hold when it is just a bit warmer. Oct 23, 2014
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
^^^^^^^That's a good way to say it. Sep 28, 2013
Antoine Horness
Tucson, AZ
Antoine Horness   Tucson, AZ
I agree with Marcy. The climbs should be cleaned for safety, but not altered to be made climbable or easier. Sep 22, 2013
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Some good thoughts there Alex. An additional question we should ask ourselves is this: if our local land managers became aware of these practices, would they consider them legal? How might that change their view of climbers? Sep 20, 2013
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
For me, both are equally unacceptable. Climb the rock that is there, not the rock as you may wish it to be.

Edited to add:
Alex, I like your last thought very much "ultimately what we want to change or fix is not the rock but ourselves". Sep 19, 2013
Alex Kirkpatrick
  5.13d
Alex Kirkpatrick  
  5.13d
Sometimes I find chipped holds more aesthetically pleasing and better to climb on than glued holds, especially when the glue is smeared all over the wall or even dried on the ground around the cliff. Is one way of altering the rock superior to the other? Gluing may seem less invasive, it is certainly easier and less noisy than chipping. It is easier to convince ourselves that gluing is on the path of right; we are repairing, reinforcing, instead of destroying. But is repairing something that is meant to break better than breaking something meant to be permanent? Can we liberate ourselves from these foolish debates and qualifications in respect to old manufactured routes we admire and lovingly test ourselves on? And can we as developers respect the near infinite amount of hard climbing in the world and let well enough alone when faced with rock in "need" of modification knowing that ultimately what we want to change or fix is not the rock but ourselves. Sep 19, 2013