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Glide Path

5.12a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 14 votes
FA: FFA (with direct start): John Steiger, John Sherman, 1984
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 5 - Windy Ridge > Goosehead

Description

This long crack line was originally climbed in 1969 by a young Dave Baker (the soon-to-be owner of the Summit Hut) and Kem Johnson (who moved to Australia years ago) using pins for aid. Neglected for years until 1980, it went free at 5.11b by Herb North and John Fowler, who added a bolt to face climb into the lower part of the crack from the opening moves of Chung King Corner and found a free escape from the original aid line near the top of the pitch. They named their version of the route Glide Path, which has since stuck. That same year, though, Phoenicians Jim Waugh, Brad Smith (before he moved to Tucson), and Jim Zahn climbed the North-Fowler start then freed the upper part, adding another 5.11 section. Four years later, the Verm and I managed to nab the entire crack free from its start, which added the free crux and creates an action-packed mixed bolt and gear climb that I've always thought comes close to Histoplasmosis in quality and difficulty.

If I recall, a number of the bolts were quarter-inchers, some that could be backed up with gear and consequently ignored and others that, well, you'd take a leap a faith when clipping. Not sure what's there now. Although the bad bolts may warrant only three stars for this line, if it were cleaned up I'm fairly sure it would be a Lemmon classic.

Location

The next line left of Chung King Corner. It's the obvious right leaning crack system with a number of bolts.

Protection

Standard Tucson trad rack (include micros).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] I was out at Knight's Wall on Sunday and checked this line out. It appears the bolts (at least those visible from the ground) have been replaced with nice new 3/8 or 1/2 inch fatties with shiny new hangers. Nov 27, 2012
[Hide Comment] This is a tremendous route. Terrific climbing from start to finish, great pro (sometimes requiring a little bit of finesse), great rock, and aesthetic. We used stoppers, doubles to .75 Camalot, one #1, and one #2.

The 1/4" bolts on the 5.11 part of the climb were replaced (as Alex noted above). Thanks to whoever did this replacement as they took the time to remove the old bolt and drill out the old hole. The new bolts are 1/2" wedge bolts so I imagine they will be bomber for decades.

The three old bolts for the 5.12 start are gone. Presumably the folks that upgraded the rest of the hardware removed these at the same time as there are three clean holes where they used to be. It looks like it will be a piece of cake to finish the replacement. Nov 28, 2013
John Steiger
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Cool to see this is getting some traffic. Re the direct start, from my perspective, I think you should feel free to ignore the old bolt placements (now holes) and engineer it with new bolts to maximize the free climbing experience; those old bolts were in a less than ideal location. I'm fairly sure DB won't mind. Keep it up Geir. Nov 30, 2013
[Hide Comment] Thanks John! It really is a fantastic route.

I can ask Dave about those bolt locations just to make sure. Nov 30, 2013
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] What's the deal with the start? Is the bottom section of the crack now supposed to go on gear, or are the bolts simply waiting to be replaced? May 8, 2015
Jon.R
Tucson, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] With a stick clip, and traversing in left from the start of chung king corner, this thing is G and goes at 11+ (IMO). Geir's rack recommendation is spot on however I didn't place any cams smaller than blue metolius. Haven't been climbing in the area long but this is one of the best trad routes I've done this far! May 17, 2018
greg k
tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Hard to imagine the direct start going at 12a... Mar 5, 2022