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Routes in Eagle Rock
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ABD Warm-up V5 6C |
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Authentic Battle Damage V12-13 8B |
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Authentic Battle Damage Stand V7-8 7B |
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Bald Eagle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Bat Guano Sightseeing Route, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Buddha Belly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Davey Jones Footlocker V7-8 7B R |
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Dharma Punks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Eagle Chick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eagle Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eagle Hardware S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Eagle Snacks S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eagle Tricks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eagle Warrior S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Finally Eagle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Golden Eagle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Great Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Green Panther S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Iggle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iggle Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rarely Eagle S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Route of All Eagle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Stoner Homeland S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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To The Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Team Sofa King Rad |
| Page Views: | 3,686 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Pinklebear on Oct 17, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2022
Details
As of Feb. 2022, per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director for the Boulder Climbing Community, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting
Per: Katherine Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21 - Boulder Canyon climbing area reopens after unsuccessful nesting season.
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Per: Katherine Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21 - Boulder Canyon climbing area reopens after unsuccessful nesting season.
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Closures remain for Eagle Rock
Details
Per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
From: Tammy J. Williams, MS: (July 31, 2019) The U.S. Forest Service has reopened the Eagle Rock climbing area. The FS temporarily closes the climbing area near Boulder Falls every year in February, allowing golden eagles to select a nesting site. The nest site then remains closed until the end of July when the chicks typically fledge.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Closure information can be found online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
7/19/17: from Bev Baker:
One bird successfully fledged this year. Egg laying and therefore fledging were a bit earlier than some other years, so we have reopened the area earlier than July 31. Signs were removed yesterday.
BOULDER, Colo. – To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service will be implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2017. The closures include rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2017, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
“These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier,” said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/activity/arp/re….
Update: 7/29/16:
Per Bev Baker USFS biologist:
Eagle Rock in Boulder Canyon has been reopened. Signs have been removed, and our website is updated: fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…. The eagle pair successfully fledged one young bird this year.
1/31/16: Eagle Rock is closed as of Feb. 1 for the eagle nesting until July 31. Earlier opening of the crag may occur. Occasionally extended closures will occur.
Previous:
7/24/15: Per Beverly Baker, FS Wildlife Biologist:
Boulder Canyon eagles fledged two birds again this year! We removed signs and changed our web site yesterday.
Seasonal closure in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
BOULDER, Colo. To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service will be implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2015. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2015, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier, said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas as well as at local climbing shops.
To get Boulder Ranger District updates by email, send a message to BRDvis@fs.fed.us .
From: Tammy J. Williams, MS: (July 31, 2019) The U.S. Forest Service has reopened the Eagle Rock climbing area. The FS temporarily closes the climbing area near Boulder Falls every year in February, allowing golden eagles to select a nesting site. The nest site then remains closed until the end of July when the chicks typically fledge.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Closure information can be found online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
7/19/17: from Bev Baker:
One bird successfully fledged this year. Egg laying and therefore fledging were a bit earlier than some other years, so we have reopened the area earlier than July 31. Signs were removed yesterday.
BOULDER, Colo. – To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service will be implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2017. The closures include rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2017, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
“These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier,” said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/activity/arp/re….
Update: 7/29/16:
Per Bev Baker USFS biologist:
Eagle Rock in Boulder Canyon has been reopened. Signs have been removed, and our website is updated: fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…. The eagle pair successfully fledged one young bird this year.
1/31/16: Eagle Rock is closed as of Feb. 1 for the eagle nesting until July 31. Earlier opening of the crag may occur. Occasionally extended closures will occur.
Previous:
7/24/15: Per Beverly Baker, FS Wildlife Biologist:
Boulder Canyon eagles fledged two birds again this year! We removed signs and changed our web site yesterday.
Seasonal closure in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
BOULDER, Colo. To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service will be implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2015. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2015, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier, said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas as well as at local climbing shops.
To get Boulder Ranger District updates by email, send a message to BRDvis@fs.fed.us .
Description
Bald Eagle is the right variant start to Rarely Eagle, linking into that climb at the fourth bolt. It climbs past three half-inch bolts in the bulge/roof right off the ledge, above a left-facing dihedral.
Clip a low bolt, power to a sidepull, clip again, then engage a "V-Eagle" boulder problem through the pegmatite band to reach the jug rail below the third clip. Hint: think opposition and heel-powered jessery.
Stand up past the rail to mellower terrain, then follow the last four bolts of Rarely Eagle, up its crux headwall. Try hard not to fall off Rarely Eagle, since you've done a passel o' hard moves to get there.
We plan to move the second bolt about a foot higher and have the hole halfway drilled (drill ran out of juice), so will be back soon to relocate that clip. As it is now, the fall going for the rail might bring you near the bottom ledge, but you should be OK with an attentive belay.
Clip a low bolt, power to a sidepull, clip again, then engage a "V-Eagle" boulder problem through the pegmatite band to reach the jug rail below the third clip. Hint: think opposition and heel-powered jessery.
Stand up past the rail to mellower terrain, then follow the last four bolts of Rarely Eagle, up its crux headwall. Try hard not to fall off Rarely Eagle, since you've done a passel o' hard moves to get there.
We plan to move the second bolt about a foot higher and have the hole halfway drilled (drill ran out of juice), so will be back soon to relocate that clip. As it is now, the fall going for the rail might bring you near the bottom ledge, but you should be OK with an attentive belay.
Location
This is six feet right of Rarely Eagle's first bolt; six feet left of the start of Golden Eagle.
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