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Routes in Eagle Rock

ABD Warm-up V5 6C
Authentic Battle Damage V12-13 8B
Authentic Battle Damage Stand V7-8 7B
Bald Eagle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Barely Eagle S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Bat Guano Sightseeing Route, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buddha Belly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Davey Jones Footlocker V7-8 7B R
Eagle Chick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle Hardware S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eagle Snacks S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eagle Tricks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle Warrior S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Finally Eagle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Golden Eagle S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Panther S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Iggle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iggle Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoner Homeland S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
To The Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Team Sofa King Rad
Page Views: 2,505 total, 29/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Oct 17, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Bald Eagle is the right variant start to Barely Eagle, linking into that climb at the fourth bolt. It climbs past three half-inch bolts in the bulge/roof right off the ledge, above a left-facing dihedral.

Clip a low bolt, power to a sidepull, clip again, then engage a "V-Eagle" boulder problem through the pegmatite band to reach the jug rail below the third clip. Hint: think opposition and heel-powered jessery.

Stand up past the rail to mellower terrain, then follow the last four bolts of Barely Eagle, up its crux headwall. Try hard not to fall off Barely Eagle, since you've done a passel o' hard moves to get there.

We plan to move the second bolt about a foot higher and have the hole halfway drilled (drill ran out of juice), so will be back soon to relocate that clip. As it is now, the fall going for the rail might bring you near the bottom ledge, but you should be OK with an attentive belay.

Location

This is six feet right of Barely Eagle's first bolt; six feet left of the start of Golden Eagle.

Protection

Seven bolts to double-bolt anchors.

Photos

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13b
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13b
WARNING!!! Beware of the nut on the fourth bolt. It has a way of unscrewing itself. Sep 16, 2012
Pinklebear  
 
And for all you boulderer-types who hate to get pumped, there is a fine link-up — Finally Eagle (13a) — that engages the first three bolts on Bald Eagle, and then heads right into the 5.11d Golden Eagle. Oct 17, 2010