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Routes in Eagle Rock

ABD Warm-up V5 6C
Authentic Battle Damage V12-13 8B
Authentic Battle Damage Stand V7-8 7B
Bald Eagle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Barely Eagle S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Bat Guano Sightseeing Route, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buddha Belly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Davey Jones Footlocker V7-8 7B R
Eagle Chick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle Hardware S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eagle Snacks S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eagle Tricks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle Warrior S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Finally Eagle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Golden Eagle S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Panther S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Iggle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iggle Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoner Homeland S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
To The Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Team Shred
Page Views: 2,338 total · 25/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Oct 6, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details

Description

Barely Eagle climbs the bald, slightly overhanging shield along twin seams between the existing 5.11c (Eagle Hardware) and 5.11d corner (Golden Eagle) out right. It starts by climbing past an old ring-angle pin in a horizontal (optional clip; use a long sling), and then past seven stainless-steel bolts up the streaks to double-bolt anchors out of sight over the final roof.

Two bolts get you through the first roof (tough-ish) then easier climbing takes you up and right to a semi-stance below the headwall...The headwall is only four bolts long but very sustained, opening with a hard, crimpy boulder problem to continuous, techy sidepull moves and a surprise (!) finish. We brushed it as well as we could in a day, but it will need some travel and a bit of cleaning, so take a brush along if you do it.

The rating is "Boulder 5.12d" or maybe even "Boulder 5.12c" -- guess you'll just have to go up there and find out what that means. This is one of the more sustained "Boulder 5.12d's" in the canyon and a hell of a lot of fun.

Location

This is midway between Eagle Hardware and Golden Eagle.

Protection

Seven bolts, one piton, double-bolt anchors.

Photos

Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
Love the name! Oct 7, 2010
Pinklebear  
 
The two loose blocks were removed, and she's all brushed up purdy and gussied up real nice: good to go for mass consumption. Also, the thumb catch on the left crimp at the crux crumbled, so you'll have to try a little harder. Oct 14, 2010
Alex Shainman
Rifle, CO
Alex Shainman   Rifle, CO
Sustained "Boulder 12d" fo shizzle, my bizzle!

So you mean the left toothy crimp, which would be a sweet thumb catch in its own right, used to have a thumb catch? That's some hard bizzling!

Cool leg-flagging, seam-laybacking off balancedness to the top.

My main reason to comment, is to give heads up to the next person who gets on this to bring a wrench to tighten bolts #2 & 4.... They seriously unbizzled! Aug 31, 2011
Pinklebear  
 
Ah, loose bolts: most unbizzled. If anyone goes up, take a 17mm wrench, or barring that an adjustable crescent. These are the Fixe wedge bolts with the big nuts on them. Thanks, Alex! Aug 31, 2011
It doesn't seem like this has seen much traffic yet. It's still pretty licheny, which makes a lot of the fingertip liebacking feel really desperate... a wire brush may be in order. I really don't think this is going to see any downgrading if that's to what the "Boulder 12d" is a reference. Seems pretty stiff to me. Oct 24, 2011
Chris. T.  
 
This is an awesome line, and a great addition to Eagle Rock.
The first half is really fun, and the upper headwall is classic.
I didn't see a piton at the start, so I used the first 2 bolts above the belay for 'Eagle Hardware', then moved right for 7 bolts on 'Barely Eagle' (9 bolts total, long sling on bolt 2).
The bolts are snug and solid right now, and the rock has cleaned up very nicely.
Thanks for another fantastic Front Range Sport route from Team Shred! Aug 24, 2014

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