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Routes in Eagle Rock
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ABD Warm-up V5-6 6C+ |
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Authentic Battle Damage V12-13 8B |
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Authentic Battle Damage Stand V7-8 7B |
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Bald Eagle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Barely Eagle S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Bat Guano Sightseeing Route, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Buddha Belly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Davey Jones Footlocker V7-8 7B R |
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Dharma Punks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Eagle Chick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eagle Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eagle Hardware S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Eagle Snacks S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eagle Tricks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eagle Warrior S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Finally Eagle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Golden Eagle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Great Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Green Panther S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Iggle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iggle Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Necessary Eagle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Route of All Eagle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Stoner Homeland S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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To The Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Ben Collett, Seth Sanford, Dec. 2021 |
| Page Views: | 444 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Seth Sanford on Dec 3, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 - updated
Details
From W. McCurry: As of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed more info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures remain for Eagle Rock
Details
Per W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: 4/15/22, Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing thru 7/31/22.
From: Tammy J. Williams, MS: (7/31/19) The USFS reopened the Eagle Rock. The FS temporarily closes the climbing area near Boulder Falls every year in February, allowing golden eagles to select a nesting site. The nest site then remains closed until the end of July when the chicks typically fledge.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Closure information can be found online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
7/19/17: from Bev Baker:
One bird successfully fledged this year. Egg laying & therefore fledging were a bit earlier than some other years, so we have reopened the area earlier than 7/31. Signs were removed yesterday.
BOULDER, Colo. To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service will be implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/17. The closures include rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along CO 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through 7/31/17, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral, & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
“These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier,” said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/activity/arp/re….
Update: 7/29/16:
Per Bev Baker USFS biologist:
Eagle Rock in Boulder Canyon reopened. Signs have been removed, & our website is updated: fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…. The eagle pair successfully fledged one young bird this year.
1/31/16: Eagle Rock is closed as of 2/1 for the eagle nesting until 7/31. Earlier opening of the crag may occur. Occasionally extended closures will occur.
7/24/15: Per Beverly Baker, FS Wildlife Biologist:
Boulder Canyon eagles fledged two birds again this year! We removed signs & changed our web site yesterday.
Seasonal closure in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
BOULDER, CO. To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service implemented annual area closures in Boulder Canyon Feb. 1, 2015. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along CO 119, approximately 1.5 miles E of Boulder Falls.
Effective through 7/31/15, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral, & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier, said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas as well as at local climbing shops.
To get Boulder Ranger District updates by email, send a message to BRDvis@fs.fed.us.
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: 4/15/22, Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing thru 7/31/22.
From: Tammy J. Williams, MS: (7/31/19) The USFS reopened the Eagle Rock. The FS temporarily closes the climbing area near Boulder Falls every year in February, allowing golden eagles to select a nesting site. The nest site then remains closed until the end of July when the chicks typically fledge.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Closure information can be found online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
7/19/17: from Bev Baker:
One bird successfully fledged this year. Egg laying & therefore fledging were a bit earlier than some other years, so we have reopened the area earlier than 7/31. Signs were removed yesterday.
BOULDER, Colo. To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service will be implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/17. The closures include rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along CO 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through 7/31/17, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral, & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
“These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier,” said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/activity/arp/re….
Update: 7/29/16:
Per Bev Baker USFS biologist:
Eagle Rock in Boulder Canyon reopened. Signs have been removed, & our website is updated: fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…. The eagle pair successfully fledged one young bird this year.
1/31/16: Eagle Rock is closed as of 2/1 for the eagle nesting until 7/31. Earlier opening of the crag may occur. Occasionally extended closures will occur.
7/24/15: Per Beverly Baker, FS Wildlife Biologist:
Boulder Canyon eagles fledged two birds again this year! We removed signs & changed our web site yesterday.
Seasonal closure in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
BOULDER, CO. To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service implemented annual area closures in Boulder Canyon Feb. 1, 2015. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along CO 119, approximately 1.5 miles E of Boulder Falls.
Effective through 7/31/15, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral, & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier, said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas as well as at local climbing shops.
To get Boulder Ranger District updates by email, send a message to BRDvis@fs.fed.us.
Description
This is a link-up of a few different routes. However, in our opinion, it's a link-up of most of the best climbing on the wall with some quality new climbing in between. Regarding the grade, it's difficult. For those who have great fitness, it may not seem much more difficult than Buddha Belly; however, if recovery is not your strong suit, it may feel 13c...hence the grade.
Location
Begin as for Finally Eagle. Climb through the awesome "v-eagle" boulder problem and up to the 5th bolt. Clip the 5th bolt with a 6 foot runner to reduce rope drag, then head right beneath the crack climbing of Eagle Warrior. Fire up and right through the hand jams into the horizontal crack, and begin underclinging your way out right toward Buddha Belly clipping one extra bolt between the two routes (a kneepad on your left leg helps greatly with the rest). Jump right into the start of the Buddha Belly crux (very cool moves to do this!), and fire to the top. I hope you enjoy it as much as we did.
Protection
A six foot runner is very helpful on the 5th bolt prior to traversing into Eagle Warrior to reduce rope drag.
Photos
- No Photos -
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