Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson and Dianne Barrow, 1998
Page Views: 2,386 total · 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


31 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details

Description

Golden Eagle starts about 20 feet to the right of Eagle Hardware after a small scramble up the right angling ramp. The climbing starts off the ramp on a short slab that rapidly steepens. For me, the most difficult move arose immediately at the end of the slab in hauling over a small overlap on very small, crisp edges. A short transition into the dihedral set up another cruxy move, in the dihedral itself. This was followed by more moderate climbing to the anchors. Overall, the quality of the rock was superb, often edgy, and typical of the best Boulder Canyon granite. Three stars for the quality of the rock, the climbing moves, and the continuity. Unlike Eagle Hardware to the left, Golden Eagle did not seem over bolted. The clips were all from stances and just where I wanted them.

Protection

QDs only. This route is about 80 feet long with 10 or 11 bolts and a double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

11b Sep 16, 2002
Jim, if you had a bigger gut it would feel like .11d. Sep 16, 2002
XOG
XOG  
There is a dorm-fridge size semi-detached block just below the anchors, and in fact the most natural hold to use to clip the anchors is the jug formed by the top of this block. If you are climbing this route, especially after rain, please exercise caution. The reason I believe the block to be suspect is that I was up there on a wet day (and in fact broke a mango-size hold off lower on the route both to my and my belayer's surprise), and noticed that water seeps behind the entire block and comes out a mossy crack on the underside. On that wet day, tapping also created bad bad bad vibrations. If there is agreement that the block is dangerous, perhaps it could be trundled (this would have to be done very cautiously, because it's likely to cause a rockslide). In the meantime, note that it is not really necessary to even touch this block when climbing this route. Just to the left is an equally big feature that is sound; you can easily crank on top of this and clip the anchors from the stance on top. Great moves on this route. I'd rate it 5.11, 2 stars. Oct 19, 2004
Really fun route. Ridiculously over bolted. You never climb more than 1 foot above a bolt on this route, and can clip over your head with a bolt at your waist. And that's *Boulder Canyon* 11b. As in 5.10 in Eldo. The moves really are fun though. Oct 22, 2005
Dave-o Friedman
Boulder,CO
Dave-o Friedman   Boulder,CO
This is a really great route. I think the rating is right on at 11d, even considering Boulder Canyon ratings. Other people who think it's loads easier, you must be wicked strong and more power to ya. Nov 11, 2009
Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11d
This was the first sport route established on the wall. It is one of my favorite 5.11d sport routes in the canyon - overhanging & continuous with good holds. I have always thought the crux was at the end of dihedral, past 8th bolt, reaching a small shelf above. There are 10 protection bolts.

The belayer should anchor to either the first bolt or the bolt 10 feet west, on the flat ledge along the ramp system. I prefer the latter choice (with a better stance), if it is not occupied by a belayer for Eagle Warrior or Buddha Belly.

I used to have this climb very wired & warmed up on it before Buddha Belly. Jan 31, 2018