Type: Sport, 315 ft (95 m), 3 pitches
FA: Tiffany Hauck and Charles White, July 2024
Page Views: 178 total · 31/month
Shared By: Tiffany Hauck on Jul 22, 2024
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures Eagle Rock DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 (5.8): warm up with easy face climbing, then friction over a bulge, and pull up onto a ledge. Traverse left from the ledge, then go up and right, and climb a short headwall (crux). After climbing the headwall, find the 2 bolt anchor with rappel hardware on the opposing wall. If you want to avoid the headwall, traverse right on the ledge, and pull up onto a clean, low angle face. Climb up and right to the anchor (approximately 12 bolts). This pitch is roughly 30m in length.

Pitch 2 (5.8): instead of traversing to the left for P2 of Eagalitarian, follow the obvious ramp up and to your right through some easy moves, then go up a short face to a small roof. Pull through the roof to a second small overhang, then traverse left over easy terrain before climbing up and to the left on some juggy holds. Work your way through an awkward, crux-y roof, and then jog to the right and up a short, slabby chute with plenty of holds to the two bolt anchor on a nice, wide belay ledge. (approximately 15 bolts plus 2 fixed pitons). MAKE SURE TO BRING HALF A DOZEN SLINGS FOR ROPE DRAG! This pitch is about 50m in length.

Pitch 3 (5.7): climb straight past the anchor up a featured slab to a small overhang with a horn to grab onto. Move through easy terrain to a bulge with a nice handjam on the left. Surmount the bulge, and scramble to the anchor and chains at the top (this shares some climbing with P2 of To The Sun) (6 bolts). This pitch is approximately 25m in length.

Descent (walk off or rappel): (from the Eagalitarian page) to walk off, head south along the ridge to an obvious saddle. Then head northwest through the saddle and down the forested gully west of a boulderfield back to the start of the route. Be careful crossing the boulderfield, as it has seen recent slide activity, and there are some unstable spots.

NEW RAPPEL DESCENT: the top anchors for Eagle Fang are new (2024) and can be used as the first rappel station in a three rappel descent route. A 70 meter rope is required. The first rappel are bolts/chains located at the high point of the cliff. The first rappel is 25 meters (two bolts on a big ledge). The second descends to climber’s right and is 32 meters to a two bolt anchor near a tall pine tree. The final rappel is 10 meters to the ground.

Location Suggest change

Approach as you would for Eagalitarian, as Eagle Fang follows its first pitch. Find the start of the route by crossing the creek (Tyrolean traverse in Spring and early Summer) and taking the approach trail to Stars and Stripes Wall. Just before reaching Stars and Stripes, follow a slight trail up and right, about 30 yards, to a ledge below the first bolt.

Protection Suggest change

Bring 12 quickdraws and at least 6 slings for rope drag plus the makings for an anchor.

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