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Routes in Eagle Rock

ABD Warm-up V5 6C
Authentic Battle Damage V12-13 8B
Authentic Battle Damage Stand V7-8 7B
Bald Eagle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Barely Eagle S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Bat Guano Sightseeing Route, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buddha Belly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Davey Jones Footlocker V7-8 7B R
Eagle Chick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle Hardware S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eagle Snacks S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eagle Tricks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle Warrior S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Finally Eagle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Golden Eagle S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Panther S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Iggle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iggle Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoner Homeland S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
To The Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport
FA: FFA Peter Beal, bolted by Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 1,143 total · 6/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details
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Description

The project left of Buddha Belly goes free. Climb past awkward outside corners (ignore glued on hold) to a steep handcrack, and up this to a good rest where you join the 11d. Step back right and do a hard boulder problem to a good ledge. Mark enhanced a hold at the end, saying a flake broke off and needed a replacement. It's unlikely that the route will go without it but on a cooler day who knows?

Protection

10 bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
Can someone please help me with beta for the top crux. Do you dyno? use the left arete? Is there some key hidden foot I'm missing? I can climb it to Left hand on the glued chip. Right hand on the high notch. I just can't make it that last foot to the jugs. Any info would be a huge help. Thanks
Scott Sep 10, 2006
Chipping! Enhancing! Modify? LAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jun 5, 2005
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
FYI - Ted Lanzano and I had 12 draws stolen off of Eagle Warrior sometime between Saturday and Monday this week. Went up this morning, draws were gone and we found several cigarette butts at the base of the route. Oct 19, 2004
I haven't done this route (or even tried it), but the glued on hold is hilarious. [It's] like if you're going to glue on holds you might as well go all out. I mean who would want to go to all that trouble and still not be able to do the route. Let's see, I don't really want the crux to be there so let me make a few minor, oh hell, major adjustments.... Oct 23, 2003
Ditto Jim Sep 25, 2002
5.13b- not close to c. How about no chipping EVER. PERIOD. End of story. Aug 21, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Perhaps a solution to the chipping/drilling debate is the following. One that adopts both Peter's stance of revealing the nature of the route modification without excessive policing and the general demand to put the route on a black list would be to simply place a notation line in the entry for each route. The notation line could indicate that the line was or was not natural, and if it was not natural it could indicate the nature of the enhancement. The route description could remain in place, and we would learn as much about the route as we would about any other. If it was useful, a compilation of chipped and drilled routes could be maintained under separate format. I for one do not want to loose Peter's contribution to CB.com and his insight into our more difficult lines. Nov 7, 2001
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
This is an example of a modified climb, however minimally,and I would not object, as I have made it clear by describing the nature of the modifications, that people see it as such. Nov 7, 2001
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
The enhanced hold is about an 1/8" deep and maybe two inches long. It's not very big and you throw about 2 feet for a ledge off it. Try it out! Aug 14, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
Hmmm... creative use of the word "enhanced." I'd be curious as to the size and nature of this 'enhancement,' and even better a photo of the actual hold. Aug 10, 2001

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