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Routes in Eagle Rock

ABD Warm-up V5 6C
Authentic Battle Damage V12-13 8B
Authentic Battle Damage Stand V7-8 7B
Bald Eagle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Barely Eagle S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Bat Guano Sightseeing Route, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buddha Belly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Davey Jones Footlocker V7-8 7B R
Eagle Chick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle Hardware S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eagle Snacks S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eagle Tricks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle Warrior S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Finally Eagle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Golden Eagle S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Panther S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Iggle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iggle Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoner Homeland S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
To The Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Pat Thompson, Mark Rolofson, 1998
Page Views: 338 total · 2/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Eagle Hardware sits squarely in the middle of the Stars and Stripes Wall just where a steep ramp system takes off to the right. The route starts on an obvious block that has both a belay anchor and the first climbing bolt. A couple of minor overlaps can be quickly disposed of using good incut edges. This will deposit the climber at a system of parallel grooves or seams in very blackish rock. These unusual features reminded me more of limestone runnels than cracks. They can be lay-backed or directly jammed as one of the 5.11 cruxes. A small corner system and another crux at 5.10+ takes you to the anchor. This route gets three stars for quality, the climbing moves, and the continuity. However, I almost knocked off a star for the over-bolting. I found myself being annoyed by the bolts that came up too frequently, and even skipped a couple in the early part of the climb. I first climbed this route with the stupendous Henry Lester, and he too complained of the excess bolting. As I recall, he clipped perhaps no more than 8 of the bolts. Nonetheless, this route is a classic Boulder Canyon climb and a must do at Eagle Rock.

Protection

QD only. This is an 80ft route with 13 or 14 bolts and a double bolt anchor.

Photos

Here's an idea: bring 8 quickdraws instead of 14. Good climb on fine stone. Sep 9, 2015
Pat Thompson is responsible for bolting & cleaning this route. I was just the first person to freeclimb it. I bolted most of the other climbs at Eagle Rock. Yes, it could have been done with less bolts, but so what? I have climbed it many times to warm up for harder routes, and it's a great climb. If you don't like it, then don't clip all the bolts or go to another crag & leave this wall for those of us who like it. I have met many people who have climbed this route and loved all the bolts. What really find trully amazing is all the comments from Anonymous Cowards! You guys are really chickenshits for not having the balls to post your real names. Nov 14, 2012
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
A 5.11d for the first lead ever? I think that pretty much shows what the over-bolting issue does to this climb. I'm sure the moves are still hard, over my head, but don't listen to me, I'm one of those old ethic farts that used to try and push using fine clay instead of chalk in your chalk bag (never did like that climb by following the dots thing). Sep 18, 2007
Darko Sarenac
boulder, co
5.11d
Darko Sarenac   boulder, co
5.11d
The bolting worked just fine for my wife Cath for whom this was the first ever lead, indoor or outdoor. Sep 18, 2007
ac
ac  
Everyone will not agree. Pipe up about what bolts you think are not needed, eventually someone with a wrench will fix the route, or not. If I could climb more than 5.5- I would do it myself :-o Oct 25, 2005
ac
ac  
Uh ... yeah. Have you seen what happens to people on this site and in the community when someone removes a bolt? Retro-bolts? Changes fixed gear in any way, any where, under any circumstances?

If you haven't, one word: pirahnas.

It's probably easy for many to agree that Rolofson/whomever over bolted the hell out of many routes, the Eagle's (otherwise fun) routes included, but try to get consensus to change it... fuggedaboutit. Oct 25, 2005
ac
ac  
Why don't you post which bolts could or should be safely or easily skipped. Then perhaps we could eventually agree on which bolts should eventually be removed? If fixed pro is unecessary, clean it. Just stating that it is overbolted does not bring us forward. Oct 25, 2005
?????  
Absolutely no joke the bolt ladder on the Grand Wall has more generous spacing on it that this route. Someone could have bolted this route on lead from aiders, never venturing into their top step and still would have placed the bolts further apart. Oct 25, 2005
A fun route but hysterically over bolted. Oct 24, 2005
Could have been a good route, if it weren't so grossly over-bolted. Good job on ruining another nice piece of stone. Oct 24, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
I found this to be not as good as others have said. Mediocre (but solid) rock at the bottom, not particularly interesting moves. Just a pump.

The bolts at the bottom are absurd, beginning with 2 belay (or bivvy?) bolts with another belay bolt just to the left. Then several bolts about 4 feet apart on easy ground. Perhaps some of these were added by another party. One bolt in the first 15 feet would be plenty. Once it gets hard, the bolts are still pretty close, but at least they make sense thre. I clipped them all, being really pumped, as this was the last climb of the afternoon. Oct 17, 2003
The insane redpoint crux: not Z-clipping. Oct 8, 2003
I was hoping someone could also bolt the approach slab to this climb, because I felt it was fairly run-out compared to the route. Thank God there was a rap anchor at the base of the route or I would have made it safely to the ground. Also, I appreciated the fact that my mid-section was just as well-protected throughout this route as my feet and chest were as I strained for the next bolt. Good job protecting this route!!! Sep 4, 2003