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Routes in Eagle Rock

ABD Warm-up V5 6C
Authentic Battle Damage V12-13 8B
Authentic Battle Damage Stand V7-8 7B
Bald Eagle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Barely Eagle S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Bat Guano Sightseeing Route, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buddha Belly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Davey Jones Footlocker V7-8 7B R
Eagle Chick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle Hardware S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eagle Snacks S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eagle Tricks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle Warrior S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Finally Eagle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Golden Eagle S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Panther S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Iggle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iggle Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoner Homeland S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
To The Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 405 total, 2/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

This takes the huge left-facing dihedral that splits the whole rock and is very prominent from the road. The start of the climb is reached by hiking up and right and getting onto large ramp system that brings you to the start of the route.

Climb slabby rock with little pro as it steepens and gets polished... you will see a fixed pin under a large roof, don't go that high but traverse left on scary moderate ledge to a slab that brings you up and left and into the dihedral (scary moves above tricky pro) and take the steep corner (6-10 inch crack) by climbing face just left of the crack for a long way (just when you think things will ease up they don't) and turning roof high up to a ledge with 2 new bolts. This pitch is long and protection is thoughtful (unless you haul a bunch of #5 camalots).....5.5 is total sandbag, I'd say sustained 5.7 with a few scary sections.

Pitch 2 continues up the face left of the huge corner and is much easier but fun and steep with big holds. Not a beginner lead despite the 5.5 rating.

Protection

Stoppers and Aliens to #4 Camalot (#5 if you like hauling that anchor along).

Photos

Rodger Raubach  
  5.5
I've done this route twice, or something very close to it, but both ascents were "way back when...." This is best done in the Fall when the water leveland creek crossing doesn't factor into the approach, or the effort isn't worthwhile. I didn't find this to be any harder than 5.4-5.5 at the time, but that's an "Old School" rating, too. May 16, 2013
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.6
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.6
Midway through pitch one, I came upon a fresh, hot, steamer the size and weight of a Texas cow turd. It is unknown whether this be the handiwork of herbivore or carnivore, but it was clearly not avian. It seems that avoiding these deposits of schitt makes one gravitate to the sparsely protected face to the left of the dihedral. Though runout, it is at least cleaner. Aug 29, 2004
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.6
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.6
I agree with both previous entries: the climb is more 5.6, there is an abundance of (mostly avoidable) poop, and should possibly receive an 's' rating, due to the first pitch. It's a really fun time, though, and the ledge at the top of the first pitch is very spacious and cool.

Eagle Rock does require a creek crossing, so keep that in mind, as it could affect your 'car-to-car' during the spring months. Mar 1, 2004
Great route to escape the crowds...Cool dihedral minus the bat shit and wood rat piss. I haven't found another dihedral at the grade to stand up to the quality of the Zanzibar Dihedral on Independence Pass. Anyone have any suggestions? Nov 24, 2002
JVonD
Longmont, CO
JVonD   Longmont, CO
Great climb. First pitch is an ugly traverse. ZigZag from right to left until you get to a 2 bolt anchor on the face. Then go straight up the face next to the dihedral (5.7) up to a huge ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Really fun pitch. Pitch 3 go's straight up on huge buckets, and then finally getting into the dihedral crack for the final 20' to a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel down or walk off the back. Small rack. Friends around #1-4, nuts from #5-10, 6 quick draws, and 3 slings. Have fun! Nov 11, 2001