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Routes in Eagle Rock

ABD Warm-up V5 6C
Authentic Battle Damage V12-13 8B
Authentic Battle Damage Stand V7-8 7B
Bald Eagle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Barely Eagle S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Bat Guano Sightseeing Route, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buddha Belly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Davey Jones Footlocker V7-8 7B R
Eagle Chick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle Hardware S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eagle Snacks S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eagle Tricks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle Warrior S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Finally Eagle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Golden Eagle S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Panther S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Iggle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iggle Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoner Homeland S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
To The Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Description

Eagle Rock is a frequently overlooked crag on the South side of Boulder Canyon. It sits deep in the canyon and across the creek from the road. While the crag is close to 400ft high, only some of the older trad routes extend its full length. Most of the new bolted sport routes are between 80 and 100 feet in length. I found the rock to be a little different from typical Boulder Canyon granite, and some of these unusual features are described in the route descriptions. The main new wall has been called "The Stars and Stripes Wall" by Mark Rolofson in his year 2000 guide to Boulder Canyon. The climbing is vertical to overhanging and generally runs from upper 5.11 to middle 5.13 or so. A few serious projects remain to be red pointed. Mark has done an incredible job of keeping track of the FA data, as is well documented in his guide.

L->R (incomplete):

A. Chicken Delight, 8, 2p, gear.
B. Iggle, 11, 1p, bolts.
C Iggle Direct, 11, 1p, bolts.
D. The Bat Guano Sightseeing Route, 9-, 3p, gear.
E. Eagle Tricks, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
F. Frei Vogel, 9 R, 3p, gear.
G1. Screaming War Eagles, 10-, gear.
G2. Eagle Snacks, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
G3. Gros Vogel, 8 A2, 3p, gear.
I. Eagle Chick, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
J. Eagle Eyes, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
K. Eagle Hardware, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
L. Barely Eagle, 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.
LM. Finally Eagle, 13-, 1p, 80', bolts, linkup.
M. Bald Eagle, 13, 1p, 80', bolts.
N. Golden Eagle, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
O. Eagle Warrior, 13, 1p, bolts.
P. Buddha Belly, 13-, 1p, bolts.
Q1. Green Panther, 12+, 1p, bolts.
Q2. Stoner Homeland, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts.
R?. Screaming War Eagle, 10, 3p, gear.
S. Great Dihedral, 6, 2p, ~280', gear.
T. To The Sun, 5, 2p, 300', gear.
U. Right Face, 5, 2p, gear.
2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Eagle Rock is 6.2 miles up Boulder Canyon. Parking can be found near by and on both sides of the road. Hike down to the stream and cross as you can. A Tyrolean Traverse was still up at the end of last year, and may still be in place. If not, the talus in the stream can be hopped over, or the stream waded. The Stars and Stripes Wall is just about dead center in the middle of the crag and is approached by a good trail that was put in by the new route developers.

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The nest on Eagle Rock in 2017 was successful and the Chick has fledged. So the USFS has re-opened the rock as of last night (7/18). Here is the announcement:

fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news… Jul 19, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Eagle Rock has been re-opened for the year. Here is the announcement:

fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news… Jul 19, 2017
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
From Bev Baker, USFS Biologist: Boulder, Colo. (March 9, 2017) – This Friday, March 10 the U.S. Forest Service will reopen Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon. The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31, 2017.

These areas were closed February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. The areas, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls, are located along State Highway 119. Forest Service officials anticipate reinstating these closures annually on February 1 in the future to allow the birds to choose nest sites without being disturbed.

It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec… (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Mar 12, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The eagles have settled on the nest on Eagle Rock this year and are incubating there. Please be sure to respect that closure.

That being the case, the USFS has opened the other area closures now that the other nests are determined not to be used this year. That means that as of now, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress are open.

The snow has prevented the USFS from getting to the closure signs so far, but they will be coming down and the website updated as soon as their web admin can make it (snowed in) in the office. Mar 24, 2016
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
From Bev Baker, FS Wildlife Biologist:

Seasonal closure in Boulder Canyon protects nesting birds of prey

BOULDER, Colo. – To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service will be implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2016. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

Effective through July 31, 2016, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

“These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier,” said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/activity/arp/re…. Jan 31, 2016
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
From Bev Baker:

Date: Feb. 3, 2014

BOULDER, Colo. – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests implemented its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon on February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec… (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. It is against Federal and State law to disturb any nesting bird of prey.

The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence. “Closures in Boulder Canyon are vitally important to protect one of only a handful of known golden eagle nesting territories in Boulder County. Their specific habitat needs limit what areas they can use for mating and fledging their young,” said Sylvia Clark, Boulder District Ranger. Contact Boulder Ranger District at 303-541-2500 for more information. Feb 3, 2014
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
From the USFS: Boulder, Colo. (Jan, 30 2013)– The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.

These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec… (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. Jan 30, 2013
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
Your shoe was still there as of 9/16/12. Good luck! Sep 20, 2012
Left a 5.10 TEAM up at Eagle Rock on 9/14. If you could, please let me know if you find it. Thanks. Sep 19, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
From Bev Baker, Wildlife Biologist, Boulder Ranger District:

Boulder, Colo. (January 25, 2012) – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.
These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec… (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. Jan 26, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
From the NFS:

Good afternoon everyone,

Attached is a press release for the reopening of Eagle Rock. Signs in the area will be removed this Sunday. The golden eagles fledged one young bird last week. We had a very active group of volunteers and employees this year who monitored the nesting progress regularly. If any of you are in the area and happen to see a young eagle flying (with white patches on the wings and tail), I'd love to hear about it! We never get to actually see them fledge, just that they're in the nest and then not.

Bev Baker
Wildlife Biologist
Boulder Ranger District
2140 Yarmouth Avenue
Boulder, CO 80301

303-541-2517
bbaker@fs.fed.us Jul 30, 2010
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Boulder Canyon
www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/
Contact: Maribeth Pecotte, (303) 541-2500

Boulder, Colo. (April 2, 2010) – The Forest Service has reopened some climbing areas in Boulder Canyon that were closed to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

Security Risk and the Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress areas are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along State Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

These closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Although these areas are being reopened, the Forest Service anticipates reinstating the closures in future years, to allow the eagles to choose their nest site without being disturbed.

The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31. Signs will be posted at key access points into the areas remaining closed. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will continue to monitor the areas.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreatio…. Apr 8, 2010
Tom Lauren
Longmont, CO
Tom Lauren   Longmont, CO
AC: The route is Iggle 11c/d. Nov 26, 2006
I was up at Eagle Rock looking for the Stars and Stripes Wall today, 10-16-03. I somehow ended up much too far on the north side of the wall and ended up climbing a bolted traverse that went into a dihedral. I was wondering if anyone had any information as to what I was climbing on. By the way, the route was not that cool. Thanks. Oct 16, 2003
MB
MB  
There is a raptor closure on Eagle Rock from Feb 1 through July 31, which includes all lands within 1/8 mile in any direction from the crag. Mar 11, 2003

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