Eagle Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 6,699 ft | 2,042 m |
GPS: |
39.9992, -105.3826 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
|
Page Views: | 62,578 total · 211/month | |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
Per W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: 4/15/22, Eagle Rock closed to climbing thru 7/31/22.
From: Tammy J. Williams, MS: (7/31/19) The USFS reopened Eagle Rock. The FS temporarily closes the climbing area near Boulder Falls every year in February, allowing golden eagles to select a nesting site. The nest site then remains closed until the end of July when the chicks typically fledge.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Closure information can be found online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
7/19/17: Bev Baker:
1 bird successfully fledged this year. Egg laying & therefore fledging were a bit earlier than some other years, so we have reopened Eagle earlier than 7/31. Signs were removed.
To protect nesting golden eagles, the USFS will be implement annual area closures in Boulder Canyon 2/1/17. The closures include rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/17, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral, & Riviera will remain open as long as we stay out of the closed areas.
“These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier,” said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform us about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access points into closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites & at fs.usda.gov/activity/arp/re….
Update: 7/29/16:
Per Bev Baker USFS biologist:
Eagle Rock in Boulder Canyon reopened. Signs have been removed, & our website is updated: fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…. The eagle pair successfully fledged one young bird this year.
1/31/16: Eagle Rock is closed as of 2/1 for the eagle nesting until 7/31. Earlier opening of the crag may occur. Occasionally extended closures will occur.
7/24/15: Per Beverly Baker, FS Wildlife Biologist:
Boulder Canyon eagles fledged two birds again this year! We removed signs & changed our web site yesterday.
Seasonal closure in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
BOULDER, CO. To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service implemented annual area closures in Boulder Canyon 2/1/15. The closures include rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
Through 7/31/15, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral, & Riviera will remain open as long as we stay out of the closed areas.
These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site are closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier, said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas as well as at local climbing shops.
To get Boulder Ranger District updates by email, send a message to BRDvis@fs.fed.us.
Description
Eagle Rock is a frequently overlooked crag on the South side of Boulder Canyon. It sits deep in the canyon and across the creek from the road. While the crag is close to 400ft high, only some of the older trad routes extend its full length. Most of the new bolted sport routes are between 80 and 100 feet in length. I found the rock to be a little different from typical Boulder Canyon granite, and some of these unusual features are described in the route descriptions. The main new wall has been called "The Stars and Stripes Wall" by Mark Rolofson in his year 2000 guide to Boulder Canyon. The climbing is vertical to overhanging and generally runs from upper 5.11 to middle 5.13 or so. A few serious projects remain to be red pointed. Mark has done an incredible job of keeping track of the FA data, as is well documented in his guide.
NEW RAPPEL DESCENT: The top anchors for Eagle Fang are new (Jul 2024) and can be used as the first rappel station in a three-rappel descent route. A 60 meter rope is adequate (see below). The first rappel are bolts/chains located at the high point of the cliff. The first rappel is 25 meters (two bolts on a big ledge). The second descends to climber’s right and is 29 meters to a two-bolt anchor near a tall pine tree. This is a rope-stretcher if using a 60m rope. The final rappel is 10 meters to the ground.
L->R (incomplete):
A. Chicken Delight, 8, 2p, gear.
B. Iggle, 11, 1p, bolts.
C Iggle Direct, 11, 1p, bolts.
D. The Bat Guano Sightseeing Route, 9-, 3p, gear.
E. Eagle Tricks, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
F. Frei Vogel, 9 R, 3p, gear.
G1. Screaming War Eagles, 10-, gear.
G2. Eagle Snacks, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
G3. Gros Vogel, 8 A2, 3p, gear.
I. Eagle Chick, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
J. Eagle Eyes, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
K. Eagle Hardware, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
above K. Dharma Punks, 11, 4p, 280, bolts.
L. Barely Eagle, 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.
LM. Finally Eagle, 13, 1p, 80', bolts, link-up.
LMOP. Route of All Eagle, 13, 1p, 80', bolts.
M. Bald Eagle, 13, 1p, 80', bolts.
N. Golden Eagle, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
ON. Necessary Eagle, 12, 1p, bolts.
O. Eagle Warrior, 13, 1p, bolts.
P. Buddha Belly, 13-, 1p, bolts.
Q1. Green Panther, 12+, 1p, bolts.
Q2. Stoner Homeland, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts.
R?. Screaming War Eagle, 10, 3p, gear.
S. Great Dihedral, 6, 2p, ~280', gear.
T. To The Sun, 5, 2p, 300', gear.
U1. Egalitarian, 7+, 4p, 320', gear.
U2. Eagle Fang, 8, 3p, 315' bolts.
V? Fledgling, 6, 2p, 250', gear.
W? Right Face, 5, 2p, gear.
Getting There
Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Rock
Weather Averages
High
|
Low
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
All Photos Within Eagle Rock
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About Eagle Rock
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (19)
24 Comments