Type: Sport, 280 ft (85 m), 4 pitches
FA: James Egan and Jesse Henley
Page Views: 3,206 total · 114/month
Shared By: Stonebhikku on Aug 17, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details
Access Issue: 2019 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details

Description

Dharma Punks is a 4 pitch adventure climb (using the previously bolted first pitch “Eagle Hardware”)  on a continuous swath of stone up the middle of the Eagle Rock buttress. It has a little bit of everything, with varied pitches of changing styles. Each pitch ends at a two bolt anchor and rappel station, so it’s easily escapable. The more traffic this sees, the more clean it will get. The quality of the pitches get better as you go up.

Pitch 1. Start up “Eagle Hardware” if you want the most direct line into the 3 new pitches, but you can also start from “Eagle Eyes” as a harder variation if you don’t mind a small traverse to the bolt above the anchors for pitch 2, 11b/c, 13-14 bolts, 80 feet. (You can also link pitch 1 and 2 for a long single pitch without much drag.)

Pitch 2. Go straight up from belay to the bolt under the roof, continue up trending right following 5 bolts to a two bolt rap station, 5.9, 5 bolts, 50 feet.

Pitch 3. Climb straight off belay following the line of bolts through the steep headwall with a crux coming in after the 4th bolt. This is really fun face climbing on good incuts culminating with a few thin moves, then the difficulties back off at a mantel onto the slab above. Trend up and left below a large ledge we’re calling the “Bardo Ledge” where you’ll find the anchor. The last 15 feet of this pitch is on subpar stone, 11c/d 10 bolts, 80 feet.

Pitch 4. Do an easy mantel over onto the “Bardo Ledge”, stem across the wall to a rock on the ledge, and clip the first bolt. Pull up and over on easy rock to get into the mini-roof feature with diagonal rails, and trend up and right on immaculate stone. Follow the line of bolts up the best stone on the wall to the summit, bump fists, check your phone...or not (service up here), revel in your enlightenment beyond the Bardo, and decide if you want to go back to the material realm, 10b/c, 11 bolts, 75 feet.

For descent: rap the route, this can be done in 3 rappels with a 70 meter rope (if you skip the 2nd pitch rap anchor and go directly to Eagle Hardware's rap station) or 4 raps with a 60 meter rope.

Location

In the middle of the Stars and Stripes wall, start up Eagle Hardware.

Protection

13-14 bolts.

Photos