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Routes in Eagle Rock
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ABD Warm-up V5 6C |
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Authentic Battle Damage V12-13 8B |
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Authentic Battle Damage Stand V7-8 7B |
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Authentic Paper Cut V3-4 6A+ |
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Bald Eagle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Barely Eagle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bat Guano Sightseeing Route, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Buddha Belly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Davey Jones Footlocker V9 7C R |
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Dharma Punks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Eagle Chick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eagle Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eagle Fang S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Hardware S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Eagle Snacks (P1 of Gross Vogel (aid) or Frei Vogel (free)) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eagle Tricks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eagle Warrior S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Egalitarian S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finally Eagle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fledgling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Golden Eagle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Great Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Green Panther S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Iggle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iggle Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Miyagi-Do T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Necessary Eagle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Route of All Eagle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Stoner Homeland S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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To The Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Sport, 280 ft (85 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | James Egan and Jesse Henley |
| Page Views: | 4,966 total · 72/month |
| Shared By: | Stonebhikku on Aug 17, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, &, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Details
On 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened. Eagle Rock is closed.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures Eagle Rock
Details
Seasonal restrictions in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
Per W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: 4/15/22, Eagle Rock closed to climbing thru 7/31/22.
From: Tammy J. Williams, MS: (7/31/19) The USFS reopened Eagle Rock. The FS temporarily closes the climbing area near Boulder Falls every year in February, allowing golden eagles to select a nesting site. The nest site then remains closed until the end of July when the chicks typically fledge.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Closure information can be found online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
7/19/17: Bev Baker:
1 bird successfully fledged this year. Egg laying & therefore fledging were a bit earlier than some other years, so we have reopened Eagle earlier than 7/31. Signs were removed.
To protect nesting golden eagles, the USFS will be implement annual area closures in Boulder Canyon 2/1/17. The closures include rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/17, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral, & Riviera will remain open as long as we stay out of the closed areas.
“These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier,” said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform us about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access points into closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites & at fs.usda.gov/activity/arp/re….
Update: 7/29/16:
Per Bev Baker USFS biologist:
Eagle Rock in Boulder Canyon reopened. Signs have been removed, & our website is updated: fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…. The eagle pair successfully fledged one young bird this year.
1/31/16: Eagle Rock is closed as of 2/1 for the eagle nesting until 7/31. Earlier opening of the crag may occur. Occasionally extended closures will occur.
7/24/15: Per Beverly Baker, FS Wildlife Biologist:
Boulder Canyon eagles fledged two birds again this year! We removed signs & changed our web site yesterday.
Seasonal closure in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
BOULDER, CO. To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service implemented annual area closures in Boulder Canyon 2/1/15. The closures include rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
Through 7/31/15, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral, & Riviera will remain open as long as we stay out of the closed areas.
These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site are closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier, said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas as well as at local climbing shops.
To get Boulder Ranger District updates by email, send a message to BRDvis@fs.fed.us.
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
Per W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: 4/15/22, Eagle Rock closed to climbing thru 7/31/22.
From: Tammy J. Williams, MS: (7/31/19) The USFS reopened Eagle Rock. The FS temporarily closes the climbing area near Boulder Falls every year in February, allowing golden eagles to select a nesting site. The nest site then remains closed until the end of July when the chicks typically fledge.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Closure information can be found online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
7/19/17: Bev Baker:
1 bird successfully fledged this year. Egg laying & therefore fledging were a bit earlier than some other years, so we have reopened Eagle earlier than 7/31. Signs were removed.
To protect nesting golden eagles, the USFS will be implement annual area closures in Boulder Canyon 2/1/17. The closures include rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/17, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral, & Riviera will remain open as long as we stay out of the closed areas.
“These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier,” said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform us about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access points into closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites & at fs.usda.gov/activity/arp/re….
Update: 7/29/16:
Per Bev Baker USFS biologist:
Eagle Rock in Boulder Canyon reopened. Signs have been removed, & our website is updated: fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…. The eagle pair successfully fledged one young bird this year.
1/31/16: Eagle Rock is closed as of 2/1 for the eagle nesting until 7/31. Earlier opening of the crag may occur. Occasionally extended closures will occur.
7/24/15: Per Beverly Baker, FS Wildlife Biologist:
Boulder Canyon eagles fledged two birds again this year! We removed signs & changed our web site yesterday.
Seasonal closure in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
BOULDER, CO. To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service implemented annual area closures in Boulder Canyon 2/1/15. The closures include rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
Through 7/31/15, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral, & Riviera will remain open as long as we stay out of the closed areas.
These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site are closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier, said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community & the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas as well as at local climbing shops.
To get Boulder Ranger District updates by email, send a message to BRDvis@fs.fed.us.
Description
Dharma Punks is a 4 pitch adventure climb (using the previously bolted first pitch “Eagle Hardware”) on a continuous swath of stone up the middle of the Eagle Rock buttress. It has a little bit of everything, with varied pitches of changing styles. Each pitch ends at a two bolt anchor and rappel station, so it’s easily escapable. The more traffic this sees, the more clean it will get. The quality of the pitches get better as you go up.
Pitch 1. Start up “Eagle Hardware” if you want the most direct line into the 3 new pitches, but you can also start from “Eagle Eyes” as a harder variation if you don’t mind a small traverse to the bolt above the anchors for pitch 2, 11b/c, 13-14 bolts, 80 feet. (You can also link pitch 1 and 2 for a long single pitch without much drag.)
Pitch 2. Go straight up from belay to the bolt under the roof, continue up trending right following 5 bolts to a two bolt rap station, 5.9, 5 bolts, 50 feet.
Pitch 3. Climb straight off belay following the line of bolts through the steep headwall with a crux coming in after the 4th bolt. This is really fun face climbing on good incuts culminating with a few thin moves, then the difficulties back off at a mantel onto the slab above. Trend up and left below a large ledge we’re calling the “Bardo Ledge” where you’ll find the anchor. The last 15 feet of this pitch is on subpar stone, 11c/d 10 bolts, 80 feet.
Pitch 4. Do an easy mantel over onto the “Bardo Ledge”, stem across the wall to a rock on the ledge, and clip the first bolt. Pull up and over on easy rock to get into the mini-roof feature with diagonal rails, and trend up and right on immaculate stone. Follow the line of bolts up the best stone on the wall to the summit, bump fists, check your phone...or not (service up here), revel in your enlightenment beyond the Bardo, and decide if you want to go back to the material realm, 10b/c, 11 bolts, 75 feet.
For descent: rap the route, this can be done in 3 rappels with a 70 meter rope (if you skip the 2nd pitch rap anchor and go directly to Eagle Hardware's rap station) or 4 raps with a 60 meter rope.
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