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Bald Eagle

5.13b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 7 votes
FA: Team Sofa King Rad
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Eagle Rock
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Eagle Rock is closed for raptor nesting through 7/31/26 DetailsDrop down

Description

Bald Eagle is the right variant start to Rarely Eagle, linking into that climb at the fourth bolt. It climbs past three half-inch bolts in the bulge/roof right off the ledge, above a left-facing dihedral.

Clip a low bolt, power to a sidepull, clip again, then engage a "V-Eagle" boulder problem through the pegmatite band to reach the jug rail below the third clip. Hint: think opposition and heel-powered jessery.

Stand up past the rail to mellower terrain, then follow the last four bolts of Rarely Eagle, up its crux headwall. Try hard not to fall off Rarely Eagle, since you've done a passel o' hard moves to get there.

We plan to move the second bolt about a foot higher and have the hole halfway drilled (drill ran out of juice), so will be back soon to relocate that clip. As it is now, the fall going for the rail might bring you near the bottom ledge, but you should be OK with an attentive belay.

Location

This is six feet right of Rarely Eagle's first bolt; six feet left of the start of Golden Eagle.

Protection

Seven bolts to double-bolt anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Bald Eagle, a noble and majestic bird of prey.
[Hide Photo] The Bald Eagle, a noble and majestic bird of prey.
The beautiful and proud Bald Eagle.
[Hide Photo] The beautiful and proud Bald Eagle.
T-Shred above the "V-Eagle" opener on Bald Eagle, moving into the headwall on Rarely Eagle.
[Hide Photo] T-Shred above the "V-Eagle" opener on Bald Eagle, moving into the headwall on Rarely Eagle.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] WARNING!!! Beware of the nut on the fourth bolt. It has a way of unscrewing itself. Sep 16, 2012