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Routes in Gallatin Tower

Bowling for Buicks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dagger, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Best T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Generation X T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guide Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
India Ink T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Innocent Bystandard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spare Tire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Pin S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Thing In Between T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Top Heavy T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brian Leo, Chuck Rose, 1967 FFA: JIm Kanzler, Pat Callis, 1975
Page Views: 3,978 total, 45/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Aug 25, 2010
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description


This tigger is nothing like the one you grew up with....

This Tigger is mean, strenuous and demanding. Technical and tricky, this route makes for a great, all out adventure. Good climbing and good gear are just enough to keep you from breaking. While most people only climb the first pitch, the second makes for a nice option when dodging or passing crowds - go for it!

P1: Technical and awkward this route starts off hard with a few difficult moves right off the ground. Fire through this spot and catch a rest below the roof. Move out and right into space gaining the thin crack at its worst. Layback, finger-lock, or mash your way up 10 more feet of brutality (crux) to a slightly easier and slowly widening crack. Catch a good rest in a corner and move up and left over the arete to a two bolt anchor. 40' (5.10a/b)

P2: Continue up and right off the belay aiming for a right facing wall with a short hand crack. Sticking to the corner, continue climbing up to an awkward ledge and traverse left to a low-grade, but passable slab, stay inside a shallow corner and top out on a large platform. Build a belay. 100' (5.9+)

P2-a: Continue up and left through a dirty break in the roof, follow this fracture up to the awkward ledge and fire the slab to the platform. 100' (5.9+)

P3: Finish on either of the last pitches of The Standard Route

Descent: Locate an anchor on the backside of the tower, rappel, rappel, then walk off.

Location


Tigger starts in the middle on the front face of the Gallatin Tower. It sits between Thing in Between and The Orange Crack. Its the finger tip crack that runs along a right facing corner.

Protection


A single, standard rack and stoppers, slings and draws.

Photos

Ryan Locati
Bozeman
Ryan Locati   Bozeman
I definitely agree with EC, way worth it to go straight up through the roof and connect to the offwidth at the top of Orange Crack. You will see every size of crack! Oct 7, 2017
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.10a
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.10a
Cheating with good technique maybe :). While it may be semantics as you say, I think the grading feature and route discussions are the coolest, most useful features of Mountain Project.

I think your description is great and does justice to one of Bozeman's best climbs. It was also quite a memorable pitch for me as it was one of my first 5.10 trad leads almost 10 years ago! I'm not trying to trash talk, just throwing another opinion out there. Aug 31, 2012
grk10vq    
Semantics. To the everyday sport climber, no, this wouldn't be sustained at all. I found both pitches to be mentally sustained and could never really let my guard down. I had climbed this a long, long time ago, added it here in 2010. At the time I was a very timid, Gallatin noob. It was quite memorable, and still is visually, very fresh in my head.

From now on, maybe I should let the really strong climbers write the descriptions? To me comments like that just seem like an opportunity for people to puff their chests. Anyway, its changed to be more ambiguous.

High step through the crux? Sounds like you cheated! Aug 31, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.10a
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.10a
Sustained? There's maybe one 5.10 move on this... don't get so locked into the crack. Search for the ample face features and high step through the crux! Excellent climb. Aug 31, 2012
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Tiny digits are a big help on this one and could see the 10a/b rating being fair. It felt more like 10+/11- to me, but I have big hands so had to rely on dual sidepulls instead. Stellar route no matter what! Get on it! Aug 9, 2012
Ty Gittins
bozeman
  5.10a/b
Ty Gittins   bozeman
  5.10a/b
for sure, stout climb...as my previous post ponders...this one is great training for other sandbagged 5.10 climbing at places like devils tower....cant wait to return to montana and battle with the tigger again! Jul 11, 2011
Kurt Prond
Bozeman, MT
  5.10d
Kurt Prond   Bozeman, MT
  5.10d
Yeah, you are probably right, I think I had just gotten back from red rocks...haha. Everything there is a little soft. I would still say 10a is a bit sandbagged though... Jul 6, 2011
Ty Gittins
bozeman
  5.10a/b
Ty Gittins   bozeman
  5.10a/b
maybe i have this one wired, but all the locks feel pretty positive for me...10b seems reasonable considering the nature of climbing and grades in the canyon. the description abobve may be a little intimidating, as the gear is readilly available and bomber...not all that heady. Jun 7, 2011
Kurt Prond
Bozeman, MT
  5.10d
Kurt Prond   Bozeman, MT
  5.10d
I agree, this route is way better than First Best. Just did it again today and I think it is one of the best finger cracks around the Bozeman area. High Quality Stone and sustained. Anywhere else it would be 5.11! Read the description again-it does not describe a 5.10-
Also, I used my 00 master cam through my .5 camalot. Bring all your small stuff. May 13, 2011
Ty Gittins
bozeman
  5.10a/b
Ty Gittins   bozeman
  5.10a/b
this one is like climbing 5.10 at devil's tower for about 6 feet in the dihedral...awesome! Jan 30, 2011
Ted Farley
Bozeman, Mt
Ted Farley   Bozeman, Mt
I agree first best is not so sustained Sep 30, 2010
EChristensen
Bozeman
  5.10b
EChristensen   Bozeman
  5.10b
Although most disagree, I think this is a much better route than First Best. Also, instead of going left to the anchors, you can continue up through the wide crack in the left facing dihedral which leads to the Orange Crack 1st pitch anchor. This makes it about a 100ft pitch. Aug 27, 2010