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Routes in Gallatin Tower

Bowling for Buicks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dagger, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Best T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Generation X T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Griffin Roof Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Guide Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
India Ink T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Innocent Bystandard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spare Tire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Pin S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Thing In Between T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Top Heavy T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Best, Bill Dockins, September 1996
Page Views: 1,058 total · 12/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Aug 7, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route

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Another excellent Bowling Ball Wall line. Bust a cruxy traverse start. Continue up excellent pumpy climbing past a nut placement and a bolt or two to a horizontal break with a fixed nut. Follow the horizontal left to a stout finish past two more bolts.


Located left of Soft in the Middle and right of Ten Pin (blank-looking sport with the only fixed draws on the wall).


Bolts, small to medium stoppers. Chain anchor on top.


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Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
This pitch, established in various pieces over the years, has an interesting history involving some of the Gallatin's best climbers. I feel like I'd be selling Bill Dockins & Tom Kalakay short to discuss it here, so do everyone a favor and buy his book: Bozeman Rock Climbs, 3rd Edition. Excellent historical info for this pitch and the entire Canyon. Aug 7, 2011

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