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Elevation: 5,516 ft
GPS: 45.40709, -111.22525
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007 · Updates
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

Description Suggest change

I first spied the crags of Gallatin Canyon in spring of '02. I was driving up from Jackson, WY with my dad, planning on touring Montana State. After passing through the stretch with the climbing, I didn't even need to see the school- my decision was made! Not really, but I was pretty psyched.

Gallatin Canyon has two distinct areas. Driving S. from Bozeman, you'll first spot the limestone buttresses. There's great sport here (including a south facing winter area called Scorched Earth), as well as some mixed routes.

A couple more miles to the south, you'll spot the main, high-quality gneiss area. On your right, somewhat hidden, sits the Gallatin Tower, with tons of classic routes. The left side is where the majority of the climbing is. This area, with few exceptions, is trad. While you may have to wait in line for a classic route on a weekend in peak season, 9 times out of 10, you won't. High quality lines are everywhere.

Pay campgrounds are located in the canyon a couple miles south of the climbing. For free camping, throw down a tent on a number of USFS roads that exit the canyon (Squaw Creek, Portal Creek, etc...).

Getting There Suggest change

From Bozeman, head west for a few minutes to reach US 191. Head south on 191 for 20 or so minutes and you're there. For the Gallatin Tower and the Cube, park in the prominent pullout on the right. For all other areas, continue for another minute or two and cross a bridge. Immediately afterwards, park in a large dirt area next to the river.

442 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gallatin Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 199
Skyline Arete
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 230
Sparerib
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 230
Standard Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 54
Fire Escape
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 79
Pineapple Thunderpussy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 80
Diesel Driver
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 122
Tigger
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 79
Black Line
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 34
Too Hot to Tango
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 71
Soft in the Middle
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 19
Stigmata
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 88
Bowling for Buicks
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 39
The Fugitive
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 15
Songline
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 18
Rusty Nail
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skyline Arete E Side > Skyline Buttress > Skyline North
 199
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
Sparerib E Side > Sparerib Area
 230
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Standard Route W Side > Gallatin Tower
 230
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Fire Escape E Side > Fish Face
 54
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Pineapple Thunderpussy E Side > Pineapple Buttress
 79
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Diesel Driver E Side > Black Line Buttress
 80
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tigger W Side > Gallatin Tower
 122
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Black Line E Side > Black Line Buttress
 79
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Too Hot to Tango E Side > Waltz Formation
 34
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Soft in the Middle W Side > Gallatin Tower
 71
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Stigmata E Side > Skyline Buttress > Skyline North
 19
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Bowling for Buicks W Side > Gallatin Tower
 88
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Fugitive E Side > Tango Tower
 39
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Songline E Side > Wafer
 15
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Rusty Nail E Side > Skyline Buttress > Skyline North
 18
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Gallatin Canyon »

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