Elevation: 5,000 ft
GPS: 45.407, -111.225 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 438,886 total · 2,740/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007 with improvements by Ben Redinius
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

Description

I first spied the crags of Gallatin Canyon in spring of '02. I was driving up from Jackson, WY with my dad, planning on touring Montana State. After passing through the stretch with the climbing, I didn't even need to see the school- my decision was made! Not really, but I was pretty psyched.

Gallatin Canyon has two distinct areas. Driving S. from Bozeman, you'll first spot the limestone buttresses. There's great sport here (including a south facing winter area called Scorched Earth), as well as some mixed routes.

A couple more miles to the south, you'll spot the main, high-quality gneiss area. On your right, somewhat hidden, sits the Gallatin Tower, with tons of classic routes. The left side is where the majority of the climbing is. This area, with few exceptions, is trad. While you may have to wait in line for a classic route on a weekend in peak season, 9 times out of 10, you won't. High quality lines are everywhere.

Pay campgrounds are located in the canyon a couple miles south of the climbing. For free camping, throw down a tent on a number of USFS roads that exit the canyon (Squaw Creek, Portal Creek, etc...).

Getting There

From Bozeman, head west for a few minutes to reach US 191. Head south on 191 for 20 or so minutes and you're there. For the Gallatin Tower and the Cube, park in the prominent pullout on the right. For all other areas, continue for another minute or two and cross a bridge. Immediately afterwards, park in a large dirt area next to the river.

364 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gallatin Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 123
Skyline Arete
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 144
Sparerib
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
The Dagger
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
The Waltz
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 162
Standard Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 33
Fire Escape
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 71
Thing In Between
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 51
Pineapple Thunderpussy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Diesel Driver
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 67
First Best
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 79
Tigger
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 53
Black Line
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 47
Orange Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 47
Soft in the Middle
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 49
Bowling for Buicks
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skyline Arete E Side > Skyline Buttress > Skyline North
 123
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
Sparerib E Side > Sparerib Area
 144
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Dagger W Side > Gallatin Tower
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Waltz E Side > Waltz Formation
 61
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Standard Route W Side > Gallatin Tower
 162
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Fire Escape E Side > Fish Face
 33
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Thing In Between W Side > Gallatin Tower
 71
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pineapple Thunderpussy E Side > Pineapple Buttress
 51
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Diesel Driver E Side > Black Line Buttress
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
First Best W Side > Gallatin Tower
 67
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Tigger W Side > Gallatin Tower
 79
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Black Line E Side > Black Line Buttress
 53
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Orange Crack W Side > Gallatin Tower
 47
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
Soft in the Middle W Side > Gallatin Tower
 47
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Bowling for Buicks W Side > Gallatin Tower
 49
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Gallatin Canyon »

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