Elevation: 5,000 ft
GPS: 45.407, -111.225 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 531,092 total · 3,160/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007 · Updates
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

Description

I first spied the crags of Gallatin Canyon in spring of '02. I was driving up from Jackson, WY with my dad, planning on touring Montana State. After passing through the stretch with the climbing, I didn't even need to see the school- my decision was made! Not really, but I was pretty psyched.

Gallatin Canyon has two distinct areas. Driving S. from Bozeman, you'll first spot the limestone buttresses. There's great sport here (including a south facing winter area called Scorched Earth), as well as some mixed routes.

A couple more miles to the south, you'll spot the main, high-quality gneiss area. On your right, somewhat hidden, sits the Gallatin Tower, with tons of classic routes. The left side is where the majority of the climbing is. This area, with few exceptions, is trad. While you may have to wait in line for a classic route on a weekend in peak season, 9 times out of 10, you won't. High quality lines are everywhere.

Pay campgrounds are located in the canyon a couple miles south of the climbing. For free camping, throw down a tent on a number of USFS roads that exit the canyon (Squaw Creek, Portal Creek, etc...).

Getting There

From Bozeman, head west for a few minutes to reach US 191. Head south on 191 for 20 or so minutes and you're there. For the Gallatin Tower and the Cube, park in the prominent pullout on the right. For all other areas, continue for another minute or two and cross a bridge. Immediately afterwards, park in a large dirt area next to the river.

397 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gallatin Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 135
Skyline Arete
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 171
Sparerib
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 69
The Dagger
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 69
The Waltz
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 182
Standard Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 41
Fire Escape
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 78
Thing In Between
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 58
Pineapple Thunderpussy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 62
Diesel Driver
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 51
Standard Route Direct Finish
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 76
First Best
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 88
Tigger
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 63
Black Line
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 53
Soft in the Middle
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 59
Bowling for Buicks
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skyline Arete E Side > Skyline Buttress > Skyline North
 135
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
Sparerib E Side > Sparerib Area
 171
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Dagger W Side > Gallatin Tower
 69
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Waltz E Side > Waltz Formation
 69
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Standard Route W Side > Gallatin Tower
 182
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Fire Escape E Side > Fish Face
 41
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Thing In Between W Side > Gallatin Tower
 78
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pineapple Thunderpussy E Side > Pineapple Buttress
 58
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Diesel Driver E Side > Black Line Buttress
 62
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Standard Route Direct Finish W Side > Gallatin Tower
 51
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
First Best W Side > Gallatin Tower
 76
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Tigger W Side > Gallatin Tower
 88
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Black Line E Side > Black Line Buttress
 63
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Soft in the Middle W Side > Gallatin Tower
 53
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Bowling for Buicks W Side > Gallatin Tower
 59
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Gallatin Canyon »

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