Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 5,516 ft 1,681 m
GPS: 45.40709, -111.22525
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 754,934 total · 3,605/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007 · Updates
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

Description Suggest change

I first spied the crags of Gallatin Canyon in spring of '02. I was driving up from Jackson, WY with my dad, planning on touring Montana State. After passing through the stretch with the climbing, I didn't even need to see the school- my decision was made! Not really, but I was pretty psyched.

Gallatin Canyon has two distinct areas. Driving S. from Bozeman, you'll first spot the limestone buttresses. There's great sport here (including a south facing winter area called Scorched Earth), as well as some mixed routes.

A couple more miles to the south, you'll spot the main, high-quality gneiss area. On your right, somewhat hidden, sits the Gallatin Tower, with tons of classic routes. The left side is where the majority of the climbing is. This area, with few exceptions, is trad. While you may have to wait in line for a classic route on a weekend in peak season, 9 times out of 10, you won't. High quality lines are everywhere.

Pay campgrounds are located in the canyon a couple miles south of the climbing. For free camping, throw down a tent on a number of USFS roads that exit the canyon (Squaw Creek, Portal Creek, etc...).

Getting There Suggest change

From Bozeman, head west for a few minutes to reach US 191. Head south on 191 for 20 or so minutes and you're there. For the Gallatin Tower and the Cube, park in the prominent pullout on the right. For all other areas, continue for another minute or two and cross a bridge. Immediately afterwards, park in a large dirt area next to the river.

443 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Gallatin Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Gallatin Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 203
Skyline Arete
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 235
Sparerib
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 231
Standard Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 56
Fire Escape
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 80
Pineapple Thunderpussy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 81
Diesel Driver
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 79
Standard Route Direct Finish
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 123
Tigger
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 79
Black Line
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 36
Too Hot to Tango
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 73
Soft in the Middle
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 19
Stigmata
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 89
Bowling for Buicks
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 39
The Fugitive
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
Songline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skyline Arete E Side > Skyline Buttress > Skyline North
 203
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
Sparerib E Side > Sparerib Area
 235
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Standard Route W Side > Gallatin Tower
 231
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Fire Escape E Side > Fish Face
 56
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Pineapple Thunderpussy E Side > Pineapple Buttress
 80
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Diesel Driver E Side > Black Line Buttress
 81
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Standard Route Direct Finish W Side > Gallatin Tower
 79
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tigger W Side > Gallatin Tower
 123
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Black Line E Side > Black Line Buttress
 79
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Too Hot to Tango E Side > Waltz Formation
 36
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Soft in the Middle W Side > Gallatin Tower
 73
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Stigmata E Side > Skyline Buttress > Skyline North
 19
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Bowling for Buicks W Side > Gallatin Tower
 89
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Fugitive E Side > Tango Tower
 39
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Songline E Side > Wafer
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Gallatin Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading