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Areas in Gallatin Canyon

Ashes of Stone Buttress 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
B.O. Butress 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Black Line Buttress 12 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Bleacher Buttress 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Campfire Crag 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Canine Cliffs 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Cascade Creek 0 / 0 / 0 / 33 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33 / 33
Cube, The 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Dregs, The 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
First Buttress 8 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Fish Face 5 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Gallatin Tower 13 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Greek Creek and Surroundings 1 / 0 / 0 / 63 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 64
Hantavirus Cave 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Hidden Lakes 0 / 0 / 0 / 62 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 62
Hole In The Waltz, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Libido Formation 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 5
Northern Exposure 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Nu Ethix 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Nunnery, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 41 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 41
Out of Bounds Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Pineapple Buttress 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Prow, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Red Cliff Campground 0 / 19 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Riverside Retreat 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
SAR Rock 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Scorched Earth 1 / 28 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
Skyline Buttress 25 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Sparerib Area 8 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Tango Tower 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Veil Wall, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Wafer, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Waltz Formation, The 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Watchtower - First Tier, The 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Elevation: 5,000 ft
GPS: 45.407, -111.225 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 198,712 total, 1,530/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007 with updates
Admins: grk10vq
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Description

I first spied the crags of Gallatin Canyon in spring of '02. I was driving up from Jackson, WY with my dad, planning on touring Montana State. After passing through the stretch with the climbing, I didn't even need to see the school- my decision was made! Not really, but I was pretty psyched.

Gallatin Canyon has two distinct areas. Driving S. from Bozeman, you'll first spot the limestone buttresses. There's great sport here (including a south facing winter area called Scorched Earth), as well as some mixed routes.

A couple more miles to the south, you'll spot the main, high-quality gneiss area. On your right, somewhat hidden, sits the Gallatin Tower, with tons of classic routes. The left side is where the majority of the climbing is. This area, with few exceptions, is trad. While you may have to wait in line for a classic route on a weekend in peak season, 9 times out of 10, you won't. High quality lines are everywhere.

Pay campgrounds are located in the canyon a couple miles south of the climbing. For free camping, throw down a tent on a number of USFS roads that exit the canyon (Squaw Creek, Portal Creek, etc...).

Getting There

From Bozeman, head west for a few minutes to reach US 191. Head south on 191 for 20 or so minutes and you're there. For the Gallatin Tower and the Cube, park in the prominent pullout on the right. For all other areas, continue for another minute or two and cross a bridge. Immediately afterwards, park in a large dirt area next to the river.

418 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gallatin Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Skyline Arete
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sparerib
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Dagger
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Waltz
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fire Escape
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thing In Between
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pineapple Thunderpussy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diesel Driver
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ashes of Stone
Trad, Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Best
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tigger
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Line
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soft in the Middle
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bowling for Buicks
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skyline Arete Skyline Buttress > Skyline North 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
Sparerib Sparerib Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Dagger Gallatin Tower 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Waltz Waltz Formation 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Standard Route Gallatin Tower 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Fire Escape Fish Face 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Thing In Between Gallatin Tower 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pineapple Thunderpussy Pineapple Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Diesel Driver Black Line Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ashes of Stone Ashes of Stone Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
First Best Gallatin Tower 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Tigger Gallatin Tower 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Black Line Black Line Buttress 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Soft in the Middle Gallatin Tower 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Bowling for Buicks Gallatin Tower 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Gallatin Canyon »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Hey guys,
My partner Alex and I left some gear (A sling, alpine draw and BD stopper) just underneath the imposing runout section on The Joker's third pitch on the Watchtower in the canyon. If there are any bold folks out there braving this climb, I'd be more than happy to trade a sixer of your choice for the returned gear. My number is 507-340-7409, tvanr507@gmail.com. Thanks! Sep 3, 2016
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
Any beta on the gneiss crag JUST off the road (like abutting a road pull-off) a mile or two before Greek Creek heading southbound? Poked around it today and the rock looks solid, even saw a lone bolt above a small roof so clearly its been climbed... Apr 20, 2014
Dana Prosser
Boulder
Dana Prosser   Boulder
There is a really nice pay campsite south of the climbing at swan creek- Off the main highway a little, so you don't have the traffic noise. Aug 19, 2013
IJMayer
Bellingham, WA
IJMayer   Bellingham, WA
Looking for a partner for Gallatin Canyon. This might be appropriate for the forums, but I'm hoping for quick responses. I'm psyched for anything 5.10d and easier trad. Personal message me if you're also looking for a partner! Jun 14, 2013
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
For good free camping, try Storm Castle Road (north of the climbing) or Portal Creek Road (south of the climbing). These options are currently inaccessible due to fires, however. Aug 31, 2012
NickinCO
colorado
NickinCO   colorado
Any info on free camping in the area? Aug 24, 2012

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