Type: Trad, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pat Callis, Jim Kanzler, October 1968
Page Views: 12,046 total · 82/month
Shared By: Sarge on May 15, 2007 with improvements by Matt Wenger
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route

112 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This route is amazing. The crux is on the second pitch. For 5.8 it is very exposed but well worth the hike and effort. I can't say that there is anything bad about this route. To find the route look for the "tallest and most prominent clean rib/buttress on formation." There are two sets of double cracks that divide the west face of this rib.

P1. (5.6) Climb right through the middle of the buttress along a beautiful 2' wide groove ending on an ample ledge. Bolted anchor. (50')

P2. In this superb pitch, follow the righthand set of double cracks past two small overhangs (crux) then end at the top of the rib. Sling tree for anchor. (150')

Descent: Walk off either side of the buttress.


Sparerib is its own formation.


Bring a standard Alpine rack. Bolts now present atop the 2nd pitch with no chains. A walk off is still mandatory. 


Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
Is there no longer a set of bolts at the top of the first pitch? Jul 18, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Can be done in one LONG pitch. It isn't 225 feet as the poster says. Aug 2, 2007
Tater Tot
Custer, SD
Tater Tot   Custer, SD
There is a bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch. May 28, 2009
Ty Gittins
Ty Gittins   bozeman
the tree visible at the top of the rib is good for slinging (double length handy) for the second pitch belay. Mar 29, 2010
Bud Martin
Bozeman, MT
Bud Martin   Bozeman, MT
To make a the first pitch more difficult, climb the two cracks to the right of the 5.6 crack that is the standard first pitch. Sep 11, 2010
W.S.   Montana
The second pitch is brilliant. I had to remind myself to place pro, it's easy to forget when you're having so much fun. Probably the best 5.8 in the area. Sep 19, 2010
Stone Ridge, NY
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
Anchoring to that skinny tree at the top is the best. I love looking at from afar anywhere in the canyon, totally worth the long hot hike up to the route. Aug 24, 2012
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
The crux of this route is the hike. Aug 25, 2013
Oakridge, OR
Ball   Oakridge, OR
Cool route. Not sure where the 5.8 is.

FS OS trailed a 70m for the 2nd and there was plenty. Oct 23, 2013
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
Absolutely superlative. Agree with Ty about the hike. It will feel 5.8 if you have never jammed or toe-cammed before. If you have, it is a completely golden, safe yet exciting outing. P2 is in my top 3 single pitches of all time. Oct 31, 2014
Joanna Spindler
Ouray, CO/ Telluride, CO
Joanna Spindler   Ouray, CO/ Telluride, CO
Sparerib is a fantastic climb that will feel cruiser for anyone with crack experience. Perfect for lady hands/ small hands, super protectable the whole way, and wildly aesthetic. Great anchor chains & a nice belay tree at the top. Do it! Jul 23, 2015
It is worth noting that the top of the Spare Rib buttress is one of the few places in Gallatin Canyon where you can get cell reception. I got one bar and was able to send texts. Apr 9, 2016
M Alexander
M Alexander   SLO, CA
Found the 5.8 in the #4 sized crack, very glad to have brought one. Aug 28, 2016
Matt Wenger
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
One of the best routes overall in the Canyon, and the best 5.8. Bring a #4 for the crux. Mostly 5.6-7 with one crux move of 5.8. Someone put in a set of glue in bolts at the top of the 2nd pitch. Those were not there last year if I remember correctly. For how much use it gets, might not be a bad thing, reduce the wear and tear on the tree up there. May 30, 2017
Ryan Locati
Ryan Locati   Bozeman
Definitely worth doing it in one mega-pitch, doable with a 70m rope a 60 won't work and doubles from .5-3 and 1#4 BD is flawless. Enjoy the splitter to heaven Sep 18, 2017