Mountain Project Logo

Areas in East Side

Ashes of Stone Buttress 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
B.O. Butress 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Black Line Buttress 13 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Bleacher Buttress 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Campfire Crag 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
First Buttress 8 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Fish Face 5 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Hole In The Waltz, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Libido Formation 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 5
Northern Exposure 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Nu Ethix 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Out of Bounds Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Pineapple Buttress 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
SAR Rock 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Skyline Buttress 29 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
Sparerib Area 8 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Tango Tower 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Veil Wall, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Wafer, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Waltz Formation, The 13 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Watchtower - Lower, The 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Watchtower - Upper 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

This area is the east side of the river of what is generally referred to as “The Canyon”. The bulk to the gneiss rock formations are found here. Classics such as Skyline, Spare Rib, Pineapple Thunderpussy, and The Waltz are all found in this area.

If you want the highest concentration of great climbs, make the ~40 minute hike up to Skyline and Sparerib areas. You won't be disappointed!

One important note about the Gallatin Gneiss is that it tends to be rated much harder than almost every other location in the US that uses the YDS. Start a few levels below your normal grades to get a feel for it. The Gallatin also has a reputation for routes with "tricky" gear. Offset cams and stoppers are useful. Do not let this discourage you, just start easier than normal to get used to it! Have fun!

Getting There

Driving south on Hwy 191 from Four Corners, park just after the “35 mph” bridge, which is about 9.5 miles south of the canyon entrance and just across the river from the Lava Lake trailhead (13 miles from Big Sky stoplight). Cross under the bridge heading north and back up onto the two track, and cut up and right into the woods when the two track ends. Continue along the river for a little under a half mile, and back up into the woods. You will come to an obvious fork in the trail. Left takes you to the Waltz, Pineapple, and Watchtower buttresses. Right takes you towards Blackline, Skyline and Sparerib buttresses.

139 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: East Side Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at East Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 101
Skyline Arete
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 102
Sparerib
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 48
The Waltz
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Watchtower Standard Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Crystal Delight
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 23
Fire Escape
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
Pineapple Thunderpussy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Diesel Driver
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Ashes of Stone
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
Black Line
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Too Hot to Tango
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 4
Stigmata
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Roll of the Dice
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
The Fugitive
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Songline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skyline Arete Skyline Buttress > Skyline North
 101
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
Sparerib Sparerib Area
 102
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Waltz Waltz Formation
 48
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Watchtower Standard Route Watchtower - Lower
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Crystal Delight Fish Face
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Fire Escape Fish Face
 23
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Pineapple Thunderpussy Pineapple Buttress
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Diesel Driver Black Line Buttress
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ashes of Stone Ashes of Stone Buttress
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Black Line Black Line Buttress
 42
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Too Hot to Tango Waltz Formation
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Stigmata Skyline Buttress > Skyline North
 4
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Roll of the Dice First Buttress
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Fugitive Tango Tower
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Songline Wafer
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in East Side »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Herm-Dawg Millionaire
Bozeman, Montana
Herm-Dawg Millionaire   Bozeman, Montana
I dropped my black Smartwool jacket on the east side, somewhere near the south side of Skyline Arete. Please HMU, if you find it! Apr 30, 2018

More About East Side

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (7)

All Photos Within East Side (173)

Most Popular · Newest · Random