Elevation: 5,881 ft
GPS: 45.418, -111.231 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,193 total · 2,634/month
Shared By: Matt Wenger on Feb 19, 2018
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer
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Description

This area is the east side of the river of what is generally referred to as “The Canyon”. The bulk to the gneiss rock formations are found here. Classics such as Skyline, Spare Rib, Pineapple Thunderpussy, and The Waltz are all found in this area.

If you want the highest concentration of great climbs, make the ~40 minute hike up to Skyline and Sparerib areas. You won't be disappointed!

One important note about the Gallatin Gneiss is that it tends to be rated much harder than almost every other location in the US that uses the YDS. Start a few levels below your normal grades to get a feel for it. The Gallatin also has a reputation for routes with "tricky" gear. Offset cams and stoppers are useful. Do not let this discourage you, just start easier than normal to get used to it! Have fun!

Getting There

Driving south on Hwy 191 from Four Corners, park just after the “35 mph” bridge, which is about 9.5 miles south of the canyon entrance and just across the river from the Lava Lake trailhead (13 miles from Big Sky stoplight). Cross under the bridge heading north and back up onto the two track, and cut up and right into the woods when the two track ends. Continue along the river for a little under a half mile, and back up into the woods. You will come to an obvious fork in the trail. Left takes you to the Waltz, Pineapple, and Watchtower buttresses. Right takes you towards Blackline, Skyline and Sparerib buttresses.

141 Total Climbs

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Location: East Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 111
Skyline Arete
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 109
Sparerib
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
The Waltz
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Watchtower Standard Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Pineapple Thunderpussy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Diesel Driver
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Ashes of Stone
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Fire Escape
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 46
Black Line
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Lacy Panties
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Too Hot to Tango
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 6
Stigmata
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Roll of the Dice
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
The Fugitive
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Songline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skyline Arete Skyline Buttress > Skyline North
 111
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
Sparerib Sparerib Area
 109
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Waltz Waltz Formation
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Watchtower Standard Route Watchtower - Lower
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Pineapple Thunderpussy Pineapple Buttress
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Diesel Driver Black Line Buttress
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ashes of Stone Ashes of Stone Buttress
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Fire Escape Fish Face
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Black Line Black Line Buttress
 46
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lacy Panties Black Line Buttress
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Too Hot to Tango Waltz Formation
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Stigmata Skyline Buttress > Skyline North
 6
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Roll of the Dice First Buttress
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Fugitive Tango Tower
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Songline Wafer
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in East Side »

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