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Areas in East Side

Ashes of Stone Buttress 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
B.O. Butress 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Black Line Buttress 13 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Bleacher Buttress 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Campfire Crag 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
First Buttress 8 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Fish Face 5 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Fish Freezer 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Hole In The Waltz, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Libido Formation 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 5
Northern Exposure 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Nu Ethix 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Out of Bounds Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Pineapple Buttress 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
SAR Rock 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Skyline Buttress 29 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
Sparerib Area 8 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Tango Tower 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Veil Wall, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Wafer, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Waltz Formation, The 13 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Watchtower - Lower, The 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Watchtower - Upper 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

This area is the east side of the river of what is generally referred to as “The Canyon”. The bulk to the gneiss rock formations are found here. Classics such as Skyline, Spare Rib, Pineapple Thunderpussy, and The Waltz are all found in this area.

If you want the highest concentration of great climbs, make the ~40 minute hike up to Skyline and Sparerib areas. You won't be disappointed!

One important note about the Gallatin Gneiss is that it tends to be rated much harder than almost every other location in the US that uses the YDS. Start a few levels below your normal grades to get a feel for it. The Gallatin also has a reputation for routes with "tricky" gear. Offset cams and stoppers are useful. Do not let this discourage you, just start easier than normal to get used to it! Have fun!

Getting There

Driving south on Hwy 191 from Four Corners, park just after the “35 mph” bridge, which is about 9.5 miles south of the canyon entrance and just across the river from the Lava Lake trailhead (13 miles from Big Sky stoplight). Cross under the bridge heading north and back up onto the two track, and cut up and right into the woods when the two track ends. Continue along the river for a little under a half mile, and back up into the woods. You will come to an obvious fork in the trail. Left takes you to the Waltz, Pineapple, and Watchtower buttresses. Right takes you towards Blackline, Skyline and Sparerib buttresses.

141 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 108
Skyline Arete
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 106
Sparerib
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
The Waltz
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Watchtower Standard Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Pineapple Thunderpussy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
Diesel Driver
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Ashes of Stone
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Fire Escape
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
Black Line
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Lacy Panties
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Too Hot to Tango
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Kabooki Direct
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Roll of the Dice
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
The Fugitive
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Songline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skyline Arete Skyline Buttress > Skyline North
 108
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
Sparerib Sparerib Area
 106
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Waltz Waltz Formation
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Watchtower Standard Route Watchtower - Lower
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Pineapple Thunderpussy Pineapple Buttress
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Diesel Driver Black Line Buttress
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ashes of Stone Ashes of Stone Buttress
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Fire Escape Fish Face
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Black Line Black Line Buttress
 45
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lacy Panties Black Line Buttress
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Too Hot to Tango Waltz Formation
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Kabooki Direct Black Line Buttress
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Roll of the Dice First Buttress
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Fugitive Tango Tower
 14
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Songline Wafer
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in East Side »

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Photos

Herm-Dawg Millionaire
Bozeman, MT
Herm-Dawg Millionaire   Bozeman, MT
I dropped my black Smartwool jacket on the east side, somewhere near the south side of Skyline Arete. Please HMU, if you find it! Apr 30, 2018

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