Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Doug Randall, John Kravetz FFA: Terry Kennedy, Jim Kanzler 1977
Page Views: 3,612 total · 26/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Aug 1, 2007 with updates from Matt Wenger
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route

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A beautiful line, one of the best in the Bozone. Sustained crack movement! Somewhat pumpy...
After busting the "5.7" traverse at the top (I thought it was a bit harder!), you can continue up a grungy 5.7 crack to the top of the buttress, or take a newer, 5.9 bolted finish which is a bit more direct.


The route is near the left end of Black Line's south face. It's the obvious crack.


Take a wide range of gear from blue TCUs to hand sized cams. A larger piece (#3 camalot?) is useful for the traverse. Protect intelligently here to alleviate drag on the last bit (especially if doing the 5.9 bolted finish). Two bolt chain anchor.


Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
Classic crack climbing. Pumpy. A route I have to do every time I return to the Gallatin Jun 28, 2010
Dana Prosser
Dana Prosser   Boulder
Nice route that protects very well! Aug 18, 2013
Nate K
Bozeman, MT
Nate K   Bozeman, MT
This really might be the best 5.10 in the bozeman area. Bring gear to #3 offsets are useful but not essential. Pro is great on this one Oct 12, 2014
Karly Rager
Bozeman, MT
Karly Rager   Bozeman, MT
Just a heads up that the Dockins guide book says there are three bolts at the top of this, but there is actually only one (as of October 19, 2018). It is a bit run out at the top because of this - so just go into it knowing that. Oct 22, 2018
Karly Rager,
The "Dockins guide" says nothing about 3 bolts a the top of this route. It states "Once protected largely by one's imagination, the unfortunate addition of a bolt made this variation much less exciting." Most would read this to mean that you should expect only one bolt. For years there was no bolt on the direct finish, yet many still climbed it. It was more run out at the top because of this. Maybe you should just go into it knowing that. :)
-Tom Kalakay Oct 23, 2018