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Routes in Black Line Buttress

Alto Ray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Line - Directest Finish T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diesel Driver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fakir T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fringe Benefits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Effacin' the Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Kabooki Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lacy Panties T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mirror Image T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rambo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Thintucky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Jim Kanzler, Terry Kennedy, Fall 1976
Page Views: 3,078 total, 39/month
Shared By: Ty Gittins on Jun 7, 2011
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Deisel Driver is the striking wide crack on the north side of the blackline butress. Some feel that this climb is a bit of a sandbag, but the gear is bomber, so go ahead and send it! After a few overhangs that require some wide jamming technique, step right to a chain anchor or continue to the top of the formation. Shares anchor with if peterbuilts could prance (5.12).

Location

follow the approach to blackline, and continue around the corner past blackline, past raven's roost (5.9) and callis' warts and corns (5.9 R?) to a steep wide crack. route begins with 15 feet of easy 5th class before turning steep. crystal delight (5.7) and fire escape (5.9) are furthur up the hill for more moderate galley classics.

Protection

standard rack with a few extra wide peices

Photos

I found an alpine draw and dmm offset below the roof crux, about a month ago. Just getting around to posting this. Message if its yours Oct 19, 2017
Ty Gittins
bozeman
 
Ty Gittins   bozeman
 
i remember throwing some fist jams, but you are probably right, not exactly on off width Oct 12, 2014
Seth Kane
Bozeman, Montana
  5.9+
Seth Kane   Bozeman, Montana
  5.9+
There's smaller gear if you look for it, don't think we even placed a #3. And the roof isn't wide climbing. Oct 12, 2014
Dana Prosser
Boulder
 
Dana Prosser   Boulder
 
Had a standard rack with a #4 and #5 camalot- Could probably do without the #5 though Aug 19, 2013
Timmamok Murphy
Durango, CO
 
Timmamok Murphy   Durango, CO
 
Its been about 10 years since I climbed it, but I remember taking it to the top. It is a long pitch and classic. Stopping short, you didn't finish the route. Sep 12, 2012
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
So what we are saying is the top gets a little pick your own adventurish. Go left for a longer route that does lessen down in difficulty or head right to be able to set up a toprope. Jul 3, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
I guess I've always just pulled the roof and used a newer set of anchors out to the right (on top of the route If Peterbuilts Could Prance which also makes for a fun TR lap). Jul 3, 2012
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
Could be if you go to a right anchor set that you don't need to use the longer rope but if you top out on the buttress it is at least 135 feet long. The topo I added shows how I did the route. Jul 3, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Not sure if Ty (the one posting above, not the OP) is thinking of the same route... I have always climbed the route and easily lowered/ran TR laps with a 70m rope and maybe even a 60. Maybe not 70, but most certainly not 135 feet. No need for 2 ropes. Jul 3, 2012
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
Not 70 feet at all. More like 135 so you will need to use a intermediate rap station about half way down on the left side and it isn't top ropeable so you will need to bring your partner up. Jul 1, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Thanks for correcting the spelling Ty. Aug 9, 2011
W.S.
Montana
  5.9+
W.S.   Montana
  5.9+
All you hear about Diesel Driver is that it's sandbagged, but it's actually a really great crack climb. Tell yer friends. Aug 9, 2011