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Routes in Black Line Buttress

Alto Ray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Line - Directest Finish T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diesel Driver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fakir T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fringe Benefits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Effacin' the Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Kabooki Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lacy Panties T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mirror Image T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rambo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Thintucky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman and Pat Kingsbury July 2008
Page Views: 1,016 total, 9/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jul 29, 2008
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

This great new variation to one of the most classic crack lines of the canyon adds a nice "sting in the tail" finish that maximizes the pump. Climb the standard Blackline to the point of the "5.7 traverse", instead of cutting right to either of the standard finishes (original 5.7 crack or direct 5.9 with the bolt) crimp directly up and slightly left over a small bulge and up parallel right-leaning seams. Sidepull and crimp your way up these to the crux last move right (look for a key mono) into the very top of the dihedral on the 5.9 finish and clip the chains. This makes for a great addition to this classic line, but the protection is not very straightforward. It would be a tricky onsight, and may be most enjoyable as a TR.

Location

The most direct (directest) line up to the chains on Blackline. Lies about 7' left of the Direct Finish (5.9).

Protection

With offset TCUs, this protects well, but it would be quite spicy without them. Bring a purple/blue Met. offset, black/blue and blue/green Alien offsets, RPs. A bomber #2 cam can be placed in the upper part of Blackline before pulling the small bulge.

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