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Routes in Black Line Buttress

Alto Ray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Line - Directest Finish T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diesel Driver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fakir T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fringe Benefits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Effacin' the Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Kabooki Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lacy Panties T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mirror Image T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rambo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Thintucky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Sport, 115 ft
FA: Todd Cozzens, Nate Adams, April 1989
Page Views: 814 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Jul 1, 2012
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

This fun slab line starts directly to the right of Blackline and suffers a bit from a very scary start above a large backbreaker boulder. Lay your backpacks over it or have your belayer give a good spot so if you don't make the first clip (12ish feet off the ground) you don't go splat. Otherwise continue up following bolts through relatively easy terrain until the 5th bolt where it turns into true slab climbing. Pull through 2 more bolts and then head into the top of the Blackline crack. Pull through that to the chains!

Location [Suggest Change]

Directly to the right of Blackline this line starts between the two large trees with the first bolt 12ish feet off the ground.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts and some assorted gear up to a #1 camalot and one #3 to protect the horizontal.

Photos

Ty Gittins
bozeman
Ty Gittins   bozeman
I think you can plug some gear before you hit the first bolt....great line, and better that blackline propper, imo Jul 4, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Wow Gittins... strong words there! You sure you want to be so bold?

Kidding.... both fantastic climbs and totally different character. There is a small TCU placement before hitting the 1st bolt. Jul 5, 2012
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
There is a small TCU before the first bolt but I'd still make sure your belayer is awake due to the bone breakers below. Jul 5, 2012

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