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Routes in Black Line Buttress

Alto Ray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Line - Directest Finish T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diesel Driver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fakir T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fringe Benefits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Effacin' the Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Kabooki Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lacy Panties T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mirror Image T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rambo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sour Diesel T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Thintucky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman and Matt Johnson 6/12/10
Page Views: 192 total · 2/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Aug 3, 2010
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the same large ledge (40' up) as French Lace, which is accessed by a mid 5th class scramble from either the right or the left.

Climb the obvious finger-hand crack just right of French Lace. It starts thin and progressively widens. The bulge mid-height is powerful, it helps to pull it on the left and then cut back right into the crack. There is good gear anchor opportunities immediately above the route on the major ledge, or you can use the huge pine tree 20' back from the edge.

This is a good crack climb and an obvious line. It was done OS, ground-up, so only the minimal necessary cleaning was done and it's still rather grungy; if it was scrubbed thoroughly it'd be another great line on the wall, I will do it if I get back up to Bozone with some time to kill.

Location

Follow the right-leaning crack starting just right of French Lace.

Protection

Double set of cams and stoppers. Cordalette for anchor.

Photos

Trevor...I cleaned your line. Pretty good. If you put up something like that you probably should take the time to clean it up a bit so that it will actually get climbed. Jun 30, 2011
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10c
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10c
Thanks for cleaning it Andrew! Yeah, I usually prioritize cleaning new routes thoroughly, but I did this one on a lark on a weekend trip when I wasn't living in Bozone... Aug 1, 2011

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