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Routes in Black Line Buttress

Alto Ray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Line - Directest Finish T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diesel Driver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fakir T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fringe Benefits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Effacin' the Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Kabooki Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lacy Panties T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mirror Image T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rambo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Thintucky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Dinkins, Todd Davidson (May 2002)
Page Views: 824 total, 14/month
Shared By: Aaron Bugh on Apr 1, 2013
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Start at the anchors for the first pitch of Alto Ray and climb straight up the face past three bolts. Continue up the nearly perfect finger/hand crack to another ledge. Continue up the arete past three more bolts. Top out and walk a few feet back to the anchors. A great climb with three very distinct sections that would all be worth being a climb of their own.

Location

Directly above the anchors on the first part of Alto Ray. Can be linked and done with Alto Ray in a single pitch but you would have to do two rappels as a 70m rope won't get you to the ground.

Protection

3 bolts on the bottom section, three bolts at the top, and gear in the middle. Standard rack.

Photos

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WYO Climber  
 
I thought the bolt placement was fine. Bouldery finish to the route, after the splitter crack and good rest. Not a sport route, but well protected with good clipping positions. I also got in a couple small wires in the top bit. Cool route. Jul 26, 2017
Ted Lange
  5.11b R
Ted Lange  
  5.11b R
WARNING! - This is a great climb with three distinct sections. The first two are totally safe and fun, however the third section is not. You leave a big ledge, get one easy clip and are immediately into sustained technical 5.11b. As you approach the second bolt you enter the groundfall zone (for hitting the ledge) and encounter a clip that feels way harder than the climbing. Based on conversations I've had since doing the climb, I've learned that this clip has claimed at least one broken or badly sprained ankle. I downclimbed a couple moves then dropped onto the first bolt (and my foot still gently tapped the ledge). I then climbed about 10 feet up the wide crack in the back of a corner just right of the route(5.6 or easier), got a good stance on a big block, placed a blue Camelot that barely fit the narrowest spot in the crack (a bigger cam would have been better - if it had walked up, down or backward the Camalot would have blown), put a long runner on it and very carefully leaned way out on it until I could reach around the arete to clip the second bolt. Then I climbed back down to the ledge, started back up the final section and thoroughly enjoyed it. Sep 4, 2013