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Routes in Pineapple Buttress

Foxtrot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pineapple Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Savor the Flavor T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Kanzler, Doug Randall, 1977
Page Views: 6,869 total, 53/month
Shared By: Sarge on May 15, 2007
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

This is an awesome climb! The crux is 2/3 the way through the first pitch. An airy roof traverse that seems scarier than it is. The rock is suprisingly awesome. This route is a true test of your mini roof climbing abilities.
P1.Climb the dihedral through the pineapple colored rock to the first roof. Veer left around the roof and continue 15 up a beautiful vertical crack on the north face until you acquire a small ledge (the guidebook says "placing good belay anchors here requires thought" is a very astute notation).
P2. Climb straight above ledge until possible to traverse right to arete.

Location

This route is located on the northwest corner of Pineapple Buttress.
To find start scramble up gully north of buttress until above first short tier.
Descent: Walk to back of buttress and descend the left side.

Protection

Typical trad rack. No fixed gear and you make your own anchors.

Photos

Thumbs up on the rap route, thanks to those that equipped it.

It pays to be mindful of where the rope is running, especially if linking; there are a couple places near the end of the first pitch where the rope can get pinched in the crack and cause debilitating rope drag. Jun 6, 2017
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.9+
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.9+
Added a 2 bolt rap anchor near the sketchy 3" cantilevered tree. Two raps with a 70m get you down with all bolt anchors now. It's conceivable that a 60 might work (perhaps with a few feet of downclimbing to the ground), but I cannot personally verify this.

TL;DR: two ~35m raps off bolt anchors is the recommended descent Jul 30, 2015
Fantastic route. Grab a 70m rope, a double rack and climb it in one pitch. That is the only way I've done this route since first climbing it in 2004.
As for the rappel, its been in since 2011. It was installed on "Penny's Pineapple" to alleviate the intense climber caused erosion on the walk-off of Pineapple. The chains were donated by T. Kingsbury. I've been meaning to get back and add a station down lower (so much to do). Sep 27, 2014
Seth Kane
Bozeman, Montana
 
Seth Kane   Bozeman, Montana
 
thought the rappel was WAY better then the walk off. A single 60m barely get's you to the tree, and I don't think would make it to the ground from the tree (we had halves and the half way mark was a few feet off the ledge you belay the first pitch on). Sep 17, 2014
Matt Wenger
Bozeman
  5.9+
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
  5.9+
New rappel hangers and rings about 15-20 feet back from the prow of buttress on the North side. Rappel down to a tree with a rap ring and cord slung around it. This spot could use some rap rings itself. 70m rope doesn't quite get you back to very bottom, requires some easy down-climbing. First pitch is incredible! Definitely save some small gear for belay. Jul 27, 2014
Dana Prosser
Boulder
Dana Prosser   Boulder
One of the best routes at Gallatin!! Aug 18, 2013
Should be rated 5.10a/b because this route is harder than Tigger across the canyon. For the first belay, just put an anchor above your position. Crux is below the big roof with the two smaller roofs. Jul 12, 2012
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
Fun! Got a few perfect handjams on the way up. Save a .75 and #1 Camalot for the anchor on top of the first pitch...otherwise expect to be belaying off micro gear and a sorta iffy nut. You do have a BOMBER #3 placement about 6 feet below the anchor station if your anchor were to fail..... Jun 13, 2012
Bud Martin
Bozeman, MT
Bud Martin   Bozeman, MT
Great route, Canyon classic. Straightforward 5.9 climbing that actually protects well. Aug 19, 2011
Ty Gittins
bozeman
 
Ty Gittins   bozeman
 
i recall placing a crucial purple tcu on the second pitch, which made things exciting. Apr 25, 2011