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Sparerib
5.8,
Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.8 from 230
votes
FA: Pat Callis, Jim Kanzler, October 1968
Montana
> Southwest Region
> Gallatin Canyon
> E Side
> Sparerib Area
Description
This route is amazing. The crux is on the second pitch. For 5.8, it is very exposed but well worth the hike and effort. I can't say that there is anything bad about this route. To find the route look for the "tallest and most prominent clean rib/buttress on the Sparerib formation." There are two sets of double cracks that divide the west face of this rib.
P1. (5.6) Climb right through the middle of the buttress along a beautiful 2' wide groove ending on an ample ledge. Bolted anchor. (50')
P2. In this superb pitch, follow the right hand set of double cracks past two small overhangs (crux) then end at the top of the rib. Two bolts for an anchor. (150')
Descent: Walk off either side of the buttress.
Location
Sparerib is its own formation.
Protection
Bring a standard rack plus a #4. Bolts atop the 2nd pitch with chains. Bolts on top of the formation for belay, but walk off is mandatory.
[Hide Photo] Climbers on 1st pitch of Sparerib, alternatively you can go up the rib to the right for better climbing that avoids the grovely wider section the climber is currently in here.
[Hide Photo] Sue and Rob Garneau watching Betsy Harrison finish this uber classic route.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the top, absolutely incredible pitch.
[Hide Comment] To make a the first pitch more difficult, climb the two cracks to the right of the 5.6 crack that is the standard first pitch.
Sep 11, 2010
[Hide Comment] The second pitch is brilliant. I had to remind myself to place pro, it's easy to forget when you're having so much fun. Probably the best 5.8 in the area.
Sep 19, 2010
[Hide Comment] Anchoring to that skinny tree at the top is the best. I love looking at from afar anywhere in the canyon, totally worth the long hot hike up to the route.
Aug 24, 2012
[Hide Comment] Absolutely superlative. Agree with Ty about the hike. It will feel 5.8 if you have never jammed or toe-cammed before. If you have, it is a completely golden, safe yet exciting outing. P2 is in my top 3 single pitches of all time.
Oct 31, 2014
[Hide Comment] Sparerib is a fantastic climb that will feel cruiser for anyone with crack experience. Perfect for lady hands/ small hands, super protectable the whole way, and wildly aesthetic. Great anchor chains & a nice belay tree at the top. Do it!
Jul 23, 2015
[Hide Comment] It is worth noting that the top of the Spare Rib buttress is one of the few places in Gallatin Canyon where you can get cell reception. I got one bar and was able to send texts.
Apr 9, 2016
[Hide Comment] One of the best routes overall in the Canyon, and the best 5.8. Bring a #4 for the crux. Mostly 5.7 with one crux move of 5.8. Someone put in a set of glue in bolts at the top of the 2nd pitch. Those were not there last year if I remember correctly. For how much use it gets, might not be a bad thing, reduce the wear and tear on the tree up there. Right hand cracks on P1 are far superior to the wide chimney. Walk off right is far better than left.
May 30, 2017
[Hide Comment] Definitely worth doing it in one mega-pitch, doable with a 70m rope a 60 won't work and doubles from .5-3 and 1#4 BD is flawless. Enjoy the splitter to heaven
Sep 18, 2017
[Hide Comment] the walk off to the northwest is quite steep and potentially a bit dangerous if wet and muddy. Be careful as it is steep and eroded with a short 4th class section
May 10, 2020
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