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Routes in Sparerib Area

Broken Prow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mr Friendly T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Piecrust Promise T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Prime Rib T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ski Tracks T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sparerib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tick Itch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zig Zag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Vaughan & Scott Travis - 1972
Page Views: 1,386 total, 11/month
Shared By: Sarge on May 15, 2007 with updates
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

This is a good route. Be careful there is some rotten rock on the route and as the name of the climb denotes, it challenges your route finding skills.

P1. Ascend crack to small ledge with tree (30') and follow zig zag crack to top of the rib.

P2. Veer up and left following dirty low-angled chimney all the way to the top.

Descent: Double rope rappel from large tree or walk off.

Location

This routes is about 40' to the right of Sparerib Buttress proper.

Protection

Typical alpine rack. P1: Chain anchor P2: Build your own anchor.

Photos

Matt Wenger
Bozeman
  5.8-
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
  5.8-
This route has some of the neatest jams I've ever done. Second the big gear, #4 and #5 very handy. 2nd pitch is dirty, but still fun. Tight finish. If Skyline has the "birth canal", then this is the "buttcrack" finish. 70m rope makes it down from chains on P1. Jun 2, 2017
Ted Lange  
 
WARNING! If you climb the first pitch of Zig Zag (fun and highly recommended as others have noted) to access Piecrust Promise (two-star 11a in Bozeman Rock Climbs guidebook), you need to be climbing a LOT stronger than 11a. Piecrust is definitely quite a good route, but it is one of the more extreme sandbags I've encountered in Gallatin Canyon - which is saying something! Plus the very sustained climbing above the bolt protected crux requires MANY tricky, and fairly desperate gear placements. Piecrust Promise doesn't appear to be on this site yet. So I'll see if I can figure out how to submit a description. Apr 9, 2016
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
Just do the first pitch and tag a rope unless you reallllly wanna top out! Second pitch has about three fun moves in 30m of climbing but really is just a scramble. Jul 18, 2015
Carl Smith
BeaUTAHfull
 
Carl Smith   BeaUTAHfull
 
Awesome first pitch with room for big gear. 30ish meters up is a ledge with bolts and chains that are beginning to rust. May 21, 2015
Ball
Oakridge, OR
5.7
Ball   Oakridge, OR
5.7
You don't have to chimney. You can stem on the outside and place pro on the left intermittent crack. Oct 23, 2013
Timmamok Murphy
Durango, CO
 
Timmamok Murphy   Durango, CO
 
Climb the face to the right at the end of the second pitch for cleaner face climbing. It is about 5.6R+ Aug 14, 2011
Ted Farley
Bozeman, Mt
 
Ted Farley   Bozeman, Mt
 
the second pitch is the toll you pay for a blissful first pitch, totally worth it though. Aug 12, 2010
W.S.
Montana
  5.8
W.S.   Montana
  5.8
There is a walk off, no rappel necessary. First pitch and first half of the second pitch are great, but the top (scrappy, loose, low-angle chimney) keeps this route from being fantastic. Oct 9, 2009
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
  5.8+
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
  5.8+
Big gear is nice to have on this one. Sep 20, 2007