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Routes in Sparerib Area

Broken Prow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mr Friendly T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Piecrust Promise T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Prime Rib T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ski Tracks T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sparerib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tick Itch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zig Zag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Terry Kennedy & Gary Skaar 1978
Page Views: 122 total, 19/month
Shared By: Matt Wenger on Jun 4, 2017
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

Climb the face for a few moves and move right into the wavy crack. Follow good cracks around right of a small roof. Continue up the narrow ramp, passing a few good rest stances and good pro. About 2/3 of the way up, slot the perfect keyhole nut placement, and say goodbye to protection (minus 1 BD 0.3) for about 35' (crux). Cheer loudly as you reach the hand crack again just below the belay ledge. 120'

Rappel from chains. 60m rope would probably make it to the ground with stretch. We used a 70m.

This goes at 5.8 in both local guidebooks, but it is harder than both Sparerib and Zig Zag.

Location

Start under a wide crack on the corner about 10' right of Zig Zag.

Protection

Double cams to 3" with one 4" piece, nuts. Offsets very useful on this pitch. Chain anchor (shared with start of Piecrust).

Photos

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