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Routes in Gallatin Tower

Bowling for Buicks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dagger, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Best T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Generation X T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guide Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
India Ink T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Innocent Bystandard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spare Tire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Pin S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Thing In Between T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Top Heavy T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Unknown, 1960's
Page Views: 11,974 total, 92/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


111 Opinions

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Description

FA of the tower is unknown, but local legend Jerry Kanzler did the direct finish in 1967.

P1- Climb a right-leaning crack to a left-facing corner. End on an awesome ledge with rap bolts. 5.6, 60'.

P1a- Do The Dagger

P2- Climb a gorgeous left-facing corner with a crack of varying sizes. Follow it through a series of bulges to the exit out right on a large ledge. 5.8, 150'.

(p 1&2 can be done as one with a 70m and maybe (unconfirmed) w/ a 60m rope.

P3- Grovel up the obvious chimney to easier ground. Scramble to the top. 5.7, 100'.

P3a- DIRECT FINISH. Highly recommended. Climb jugs and jams in a crack through the obvious overhanging face, right of the chimney. Hit easier ground and scramble to top. 5.9, 100'.

Location

The route is pretty much dead-center on the Tower. Look for the enormous left-facing corner from the ground. Descend by a single-rope rap off the summit. Scramble down a large ledge to the skier's left and find another bolted rap. 100' to the ground. Skirt the base of the tower back to your packs.

Protection

Take a standard rack w/ singles to a #3 Camalot. Lots of runners for the long second pitch.
id reccomend a big bro for the chimney pitch Nov 1, 2017
Kevin Macartney
Laramie, WY
  5.8
Kevin Macartney   Laramie, WY
  5.8
Did the 5.9 variation today, it looks like the freeze/thaw claimed a chunk of rock recently and now there are a few blocks just balancing on a ledge... I might suggest the chimney for now. May 30, 2017
Eli B.
 
Eli B.  
 
As stated in the description, the 5.9 finish is the way to go! Super fun pitch and the 5.7 chimney is full of loose rock. Apr 4, 2016
Nate K
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
Nate K   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
the 5.9 3rd pitch is as hard as tigger and first best IMO. take the fingercrack to the right (5.8+) at the top of the second pitch to avoid the deathflake Sep 21, 2014
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
Fantastic. Second pitch is money.

LOTS of chalk x's on the third pitch.

Second on the ticks. Watch out this year. I've found at least one on me for every time I've climbed outside. Apr 23, 2014
The big flake near the top of the second pitch is no longer attached. My leader pulled on it with no problem and as I followed I pulled it out, I pushed it back in but it is not connected. It is marked with a chalk 'X' Aug 29, 2013
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
 
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
 
Ticks..... Jun 30, 2013
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Excessive bail gear on that route is nothing new. One of my climbing partners used to solo the standard route on Monday mornings to collect all the booty left by weekend warriors who got in over their heads. He pieced together quite the rack doing this! May 3, 2013
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
  5.8+
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
  5.8+
I've noticed an abundance of bail gear after the second pitch as of late. I have picked up two bail anchors in this very early season alone. It very well could be that the left route has gotten harder as a LARGE chunk has fallen out over the winter. I personally always finish on the far superior (IMO) 5.9 to the right. I would like to tell everyone that there is a bolted anchor down to the right (Sort of near the little scrub tree) at the top of Generation X that will get you to ledges that you can then scramble down (Rap from the large tree) or scramble around the exposed corner (climbers left) and rap the first pitch of orange crack. May 2, 2013
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
  5.8+
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
  5.8+
Fantastic route. Here is a video of a Northern Lights employee soloing it if you want an idea of what the route is like.
youtube.com/watch?v=pNm4qP1… Apr 2, 2013
W.S.
Montana
 
W.S.   Montana
 
I just got back from a year sport climbing in France, and this was the perfect route to get back into MT climbing. We took the standard chimney finish. I'd recommend setting the first belay on some broken ledges about 15 feet above the large ledge with rap bolts, as this makes rope drag on the second pitch much less noticeable. This route protects very easily, unlike some others in the canyon, and seems to eat up nuts. Highly recommended. May 31, 2010
Camilla
 
Camilla  
 
Danm, I forget the meat for the BBQ.
This was a very fine route, top quality granite. Jul 19, 2008
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Yes, tha cookout utilizing the fabled grill stashed near the summit has become something of a tradition of Bozeman locals. Aug 1, 2007
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
I forgot that part, that just makes it funnier. But I didn't realize that you were with Tim that day. Either way I hope you are still enjoying the canyon this time around. A beautiful place. Jul 12, 2007
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
John, it's worth adding that Jack tramped all over our flaked ropes as we talked, then proceeded to solo the thing. It was a funny introduction to the Canyon classic. Jun 13, 2007
Sarge
 
Sarge  
 
This is a great route. It has been a long while since I've been in Bozo but I always enjoyed this route. It does get a lot of traffic and has seen its share of accidents. I even heard of a bachelor party at the top of the route :)--Montanans! May 15, 2007
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
One of my favorite stories about G. Tower comes from a good friend of mine. When he first moved to Bozeman he showed up at the base and came across Jack Tackle (I am not sure if he knew what grand company he was in or not!) But anyway, he asks Jack how many pitches it is, rope beta, etc. and Jack looks at him and says, "I have no idea, I haven't climbed this with a rope in years..." May 10, 2007