All Locations > Montana > Southwest Region > Gallatin Canyon > W Side > Gallatin Tower

Guide Route

Name: Guide Route
Rating: 2.4

5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British

Routes in Gallatin Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bowlemia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Bowling for Buicks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bull in a China Closet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Dagger, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Face Cadet T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	First Best T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Generation X T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Griffin Roof Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Guide Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	India Ink T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Innocent Bystandard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Orange Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Soft in the Middle T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Spare Tire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Stairs of Cirith Ungol, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Standard Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Standard Route Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ten Pin S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Thing In Between T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Tigger T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Top Heavy T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

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Type:	Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	4,813 total · 29/month
Shared By:	Jeff Johnston on Oct 17, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	GRK, Zach Wahrer Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

Aka the back side of Gallation Tower, this is just right of the descent route. Many guides use this route to get new climber up to the top. Good for first time leads.

P1: is short (40-50 feet)and ends at two bolt hangers at a 8+ foot ledge.

P2: Continue up and right to the large grassy ledge. clip bolt hangers at edge, there are chains 15 feet left but they are the rap station for the standard route descent. If you go to the left chains, people descending will be annoyed with you as they need to work around your anchor to get back to the ground. Or build a gear belay in face of the next pitch. It is recomended that P1 and 2 be combined in to 1 35 M pitch.

P3: crux it at the bottom past two bolts (5.6/7) then procceed up in to the narrow chimney with great gear placement. Fun pitch for the grade Some people rap on this side so be weary of ropes flying past. 30M

Location

Follow the trail up left (south) of the formation past a wall of hard bolted routs. When you get to the chute (the tower decent end here) gear up and follow the the weakness staying on the right of the main wall.

Descent: Rap using chains on North side of tower, which goes down in to a wide chimney on to steps. 50m rope will get you to the steps (3rd class), 60m rope will get you back to the grassy ledge.

(The original descent beta makes it sound like it is a 50 or 60 meter rappel. Clarified by adding the words "rope", as well a couple of grammatical fixes.)