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Routes in Gallatin Tower

Bowling for Buicks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dagger, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Best T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Generation X T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Griffin Roof Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Guide Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
India Ink T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Innocent Bystandard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spare Tire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Pin S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Thing In Between T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Top Heavy T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,922 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jeff J on Oct 17, 2011 with updates from Matt Wenger
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

Aka the back side of Gallation Tower, this is just right of the descent route. Many guides use this route to get new climber up to the top. Good for first time leads.

P1: is short (40-50 feet)and ends at two bolt hangers at a 8+ foot ledge.

P2: Continue to the large grassy ledge. clip bolt hangers at edge, there is chains 15 feet left but that is the rap station for the standard route decent. Or bulid gear belay in face of the next pitch. It is recomended that P1 and 2 be combined in to 1 35 M pitch.

P3: crux it at the bottom past two bolts (5.6/7) then procceed up in to the narrow chimney with great gear placement. Fun pitch for the grade Some people rap on this side so be weary of ropes flying past. 30M

Location

Follow the trail up left (south) of the formation past a wall of hard bolted routs. When you get to the chute (the tower decent end here) gear up and follow the the weakness staying on the right of the main wall.

Descent: Rap using chains on North side of tower, which goes down in to a wide chimney on to steps. 50m rope will get you to the steps (3rd class), 60m rope will get you back to the grassy ledge.

(The original descent beta makes it sound like it is a 50 or 60 meter rappel. Clarified by adding the words "rope", as well a couple of grammatical fixes.)

Protection

Gear to 3 inches and two bolts at crux. Chains at top.

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