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Routes in Gallatin Tower

Bowling for Buicks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dagger, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Best T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Generation X T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guide Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
India Ink T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Innocent Bystandard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spare Tire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Pin S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Thing In Between T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Top Heavy T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Pat Callis, Brian Leo, Steve White, 70s?
Page Views: 2,527 total, 20/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

Another classic pitch, one of the best cracks in GC.
p1- Facey moves bring you to a bulge Drop a small nut in a crack above, pull moves, clip a pin, and rally up the corner to a ledge. 70', .10-

Location

The great-looking corner right of the Standard Route. P1 ends at a rap anchor shared with Thing in Between and Tigger. Single rope rap here or continue up Tigger/variations to the top.

Protection

Singles, from small to a #2 camalot. My foggy memory seems to recall a possible #3 camalot placement near the top of the corner, but I can't say for sure.

Photos

B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
Awesome but shallow .4 placement right at the roof above the ground will help. Otherwise, found this pretty tenuous but classic.

There's a big and completely loose block about halfway up, but is luckily cammed fully in the crack. Ends up being a great jug and a good--if somewhat shifty-- foot.

Good nut placements are key, as the above posters have said. Jul 30, 2014
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
Fun climb! A little stressful getting off the ground. The crux is at the bottom above the talus that you are going to hit if you blow it. A couple of nut placements were very key to doing this climb safely. Apr 22, 2012
W.S.
Montana
  5.10-
W.S.   Montana
  5.10-
There is no longer a fixed pin, but if you hurry you might find a stuck TCU about a third of the way up. Not ours, and we didn't succeed in getting it out. Great climb. Like the description says, there is a possible #3 placement towards the top, but it's not necessary because that's the easiest part and there are other options for pro. May 31, 2010
EChristensen
Bozeman
  5.10a/b
EChristensen   Bozeman
  5.10a/b
There is no longer a fixed pin on this route. Jul 23, 2009