Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Kanzler, Pat Callis '72. FFA Kanzler, Terry Kennedy '77
Page Views: 3,977 total · 28/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 17, 2007 with updates from Zach Wahrer
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Enjoyable full-length route, though the first pitch is fun on its own, too.

P1 - Scramble up to a crack/corner, then up some more face climbing to an offwidth crack with a few faceholds. Climb it, and belay from a two bolt anchor on a spacious ledge beneath a roof. From here, you can walk off the ledge to the right or rappel back to the ground. 5.9, ~100'.

P2 - Angle up and out the roof to the left, using a thin crack (short crux, 5.11). Once past this and on the slab, you can either go up the corners above (fun climbing, well protected 5.8, but dirty) or traverse left on slab (5.7R) into Standard Route's final pitches. Natural belay. 5.11, ~120'.

P3 - Choose one of the Standard Route's final pitches. End on top at chains. 5.7 or 5.9, ~100'.

Location

Locate the start near the right end of the tower's base. Descend via the rappels described in the Standard Route description.

Protection

Take a 3.5 or 4 camalot for the wide crack on pitch one. Thin gear (TCUs or tiny camalots) protect the second pitch.

Photos

EChristensen
Bozeman
 
EChristensen   Bozeman
 
There are two bolts with beefy rap rings on top of the first pitch. For some reason the bolts were places within an inch or two of each other. Also, the first pitch pretty much a full 100ft. You can just TR Orange Crack and Tigger from the anchors with a 60m rope, but a 50m wouldn't be long enough for top roping. Jul 23, 2009
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
First pitch has some of the better crack climbing in the canyon IMO. Lots of varied movement. Very nice. Jun 24, 2015
CCChanceR Ronemus
Bozeman, MT
  5.11a
CCChanceR Ronemus   Bozeman, MT
  5.11a
I think Gen-x is a better second pitch than the .11 roof. The roof is like 10 feet of good .11 climbing until you get to kind of boring 5.6 traversing on an easy slab. Sep 3, 2016