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Routes in Gallatin Tower

Bowling for Buicks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dagger, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Best T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Generation X T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guide Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
India Ink T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Innocent Bystandard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spare Tire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Pin S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Thing In Between T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Top Heavy T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Kanzler, Pat Callis '72. FFA Kanzler, Terry Kennedy '77
Page Views: 3,715 total · 27/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 17, 2007
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Enjoyable full-length route, though the first pitch is fun on its own, too.
p.1- Scramble up to a crack/corner, then up some more face climbing to an "offwidth" crack with a few faceholds. Climb it, and build a belay on a ledge beneath a roof. From here, you can walk off the ledge to the right. 5.9, ~80'.
p.2- Angle up and out the roof to the left, using a thin crack. Climb up a much easier face to meet the large ledge beneath the Standard Route's final pitches. Natural belay here. 5.11, ~120'.
p.3- Choose one of the Standard Route's final pitches. End on top at chains. 5.7-5.9, ~100'.

Location [Suggest Change]

Locate the start near the right end of the tower's base. Descend via the rappels described in the Standard Route description.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Take a 3.5 or 4 camalot for the wide crack on pitch one. Thin gear (TCUs or tiny camalots) protect the second pitch.

Photos

EChristensen
Bozeman
 
EChristensen   Bozeman
 
There are two bolts with beefy rap rings on top of the first pitch. For some reason the bolts were places within an inch or two of each other. Also, the first pitch pretty much a full 100ft. You can just TR Orange Crack and Tigger from the anchors with a 60m rope, but a 50m wouldn't be long enough for top roping. Jul 23, 2009
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
First pitch has some of the better crack climbing in the canyon IMO. Lots of varied movement. Very nice. Jun 24, 2015
CCChanceR Ronemus
Bozeman, MT
  5.11a
CCChanceR Ronemus   Bozeman, MT
  5.11a
I think Gen-x is a better second pitch than the .11 roof. The roof is like 10 feet of good .11 climbing until you get to kind of boring 5.6 traversing on an easy slab. Sep 3, 2016

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