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Routes in Gallatin Tower

Bowling for Buicks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dagger, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Best T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Generation X T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Griffin Roof Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Guide Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
India Ink T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Innocent Bystandard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spare Tire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Pin S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Thing In Between T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Top Heavy T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Kanzler, Pat Callis '75
Page Views: 2,780 total · 20/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 17, 2007
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

p.1- Climb the crack between First Best and Tigger, pulling through an odd bulge near the top. End on the ledge. 80', 5.9.

Location

The route is located between the classic dihedrals of First Best and Tigger. Rap from chains shared w/ Tigger/FB.

Protection

Up to 2".

Photos

Kurt Prond
Bozeman, MT
  5.10a/b
Kurt Prond   Bozeman, MT
  5.10a/b
Let's get a decent description here.

First, I think this is the first 5.9 I've done that has a mandatory move pulling a roof on ringlocks. I've been on some 5.11s that had moves like that.

This is a very good route, and I think it gets overlooked. The rock quality is the very highest for this area, and the crack is clean and sustained.

Start on some blocky looking stuff just left of Tigger, you can get some nut placements in here, then up under the first roof(#3 camalot). Exit right and some easy moves take you under the second main roof. Good hands under the roof narrow to .75s(ringlocks) above. AS I said it is a mandatory pull on ringlocks, but there are some feet. Stays sustained on .75s but then widens again to good hands under the 3RD roof. You can go straight up through the roof in a flaring finger crack or exit right and go up the slab/offwidth. Highly recommended route!
Bring multiple .75s if you got em' May 13, 2011
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Welcome to Montana, where 5.9 gets your attention! Would feel a lot more heady pulling through the roof if you didn't have such excellent pro. Aug 9, 2012
Erp68  
Hey so I got a red #1 Camalot pretty good and stuck going through the first roof. Rookie move for sure! If anyone gets it out id love to see it again! But shit happens. Could just be a fixed piece so other folks don't have to lose gear. Good luck and thanks!
My number is 6059295777 if you feel so inclined👍 Jun 16, 2015
Matt Wenger
Bozeman
 
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
 
Soft version goes right around upper roof, harder (5.9+/10a) goes left through the flaring roof crack. Super fun route! Jun 23, 2017

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