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Routes in Gallatin Tower

Bowling for Buicks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dagger, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Best T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Generation X T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Griffin Roof Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Guide Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
India Ink T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Innocent Bystandard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spare Tire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Pin S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Thing In Between T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Top Heavy T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jerry Kanzler, Barry Frost & Others (Fall 1967)
Page Views: 422 total · 26/month
Shared By: Matt Wenger on Jun 23, 2017
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route

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This pitch is deserving of it's own page.

From the large belay ledge, head up and slightly right through blocky, ledgey terrain until under a small roof. step left and out onto the airy face with the beautiful hand crack above you. Climb up over the bulge through the crack (crux) for about 15', to finish on easier ground to the top. Though harder than the standard finish, this is WAY more fun. Highly recommended.

User beware, this is a burly 5.9, but only for a few moves. Great jams and jugs if you move quickly through the tough sections. 

Descent: 2 rappels off the summit, same as standard route


From top of 2nd pitch of Standard Route, this is the hand crack about 10' to the right of the standard chimney finish.


Will take everything from small brass nuts to a #3 BD C4.



More About Standard Route Direct Finish