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Routes in Gallatin Tower

Bowling for Buicks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dagger, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Best T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Generation X T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guide Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
India Ink T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Innocent Bystandard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spare Tire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Pin S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Thing In Between T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Top Heavy T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: Jack Tackle, Mindy Shulak, 70's FFA: Rob Hagler, Mike Hagler, 1996
Page Views: 1,953 total, 29/month
Shared By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Jun 1, 2012
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The logical progression if you wish to get to the top of the tower from the top of Orange Crack if you can't climb 5.11. After climbing Orange Crack's first pitch step right around the corner (Less bold individuals may wish to stay roped in for this) and to the base of the back wall. Looking up and you can spot a bolt ~9 feet off the ground and one at around 70 feet. This is Generation X.

Location

There are rap anchors at the top of Gen X that you can use to get back to Orange Crack's end and rap all the way back down. You can also climb the final pitch of the tower to top out and then rap the backside.

Protection

2 bolts and gear from Blue TCU's to a #4 Camalot. I don't think doubles are necessary except in the smaller sizes (<#1 red Camalot)

Photos

Max Bechdel
Jackson, WY
  5.9 PG13
Max Bechdel   Jackson, WY
  5.9 PG13
Great route, should have done it sooner! It's 5.9, definitely not harder than diesel driver :) Jun 7, 2013
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
I personally think this thing is hard for 5.9 but others opinions might vary. May 6, 2013