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Early Access
Routes in The Great Black North
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Bete Noir S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Black Toe Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Borg, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bureau of Land Management (BLM) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burnt Toast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Capital Outlay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Chuana Chavaria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cold Feet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Datura S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Delilah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Make Me Shave You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang a Louie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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It's All Gone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Laugh the Past Away S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Locutus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Magus, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pincher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Resistance is Futile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Skank to Crank S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Three Doubles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Torch & Twang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Tout Tout de Suite S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tower of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Triage S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 38.65239, -105.22439 |
| FA: | Darryl Roth |
| Page Views: | 1,819 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | B Haus on Oct 26, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property!
Details
The access situation here is a bit murky. According to "Shelf Road Rock", the crag is likely located on state land that is leased to a local rancher. Climbers should treat this area as though it were private property. Keep a low profile, leave your dogs at home, and keep the noise down.
Per Brandon Schirm: you need a fishing or hunting license to use this crag. It's part of a trust land, so therefore if you don't pay the fee potentially you could receive a fine. On 9-12-20, the cost of a fishing license was $33.42.
Per Brandon Schirm: you need a fishing or hunting license to use this crag. It's part of a trust land, so therefore if you don't pay the fee potentially you could receive a fine. On 9-12-20, the cost of a fishing license was $33.42.
Description
Another fantastic Roth testpiece, this beautiful little route has some of the most jam packed fun pocket pulling at Shelf!
This route begins with large pulls between good monos, to a powerful crux (long draw at the second bolt) between gastons, tech footwork, and a heartbreaking throw to a big sidepull. Keep it together for the top, becuase a technical gaston/sidepull crux guards the anchors.
If it were even twice as long, this would get five stars in a four star system!
Location
This route takes the center line up the borg boulder, just right of Locutus. Pretty easy to find as it's the middle route of the three.
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