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Routes in The Great Black North

Bete Noir S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Black Toe Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Borg, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Burnt Toast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Capital Outlay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chuana Chavaria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cold Feet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Datura S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Delilah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Don't Make Me Shave You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It's All Gone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laugh the Past Away S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Locutus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Magus, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pincher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resistance is Futile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skank to Crank S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Doubles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torch & Twang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Tout Tout de Suite S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tower of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Triage S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 1,101 total, 11/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This crag may be on Private Property! Details

Description

Like its neighbor to the right, Tout is one of the best 5.12s at Shelf, offering unforgettable movement on flawless stone. Despite the glaring similarities, this route is quite a bit different than Bete Noir, with shorter reaches between much smaller holds getting over the roof. This line is a also a bit more sustained, offering up a second technical crux just below the chains.

Begin up the easy slab to a good stance below the roof. Take a few deep breaths, hike up your feet, and grope over the lip for the key pocket. Work the feet, get the other hand up, and commence an intense sequence of precise stabs for the small edges & pockets that lead up over the lip. Once your feet are established over the lip things ease considerably with a nice shake in the shallow dihedral. Continue with relative ease up the aesthetic dihedral, to a brown, rippled slab. Diminishing holds lead up the slab to a pair of shallow monos that provide one last chance to survey the terrain before the thin slab crux.

Location

Located 6' left of Bete Noir, this is the left of two routes surmounting a prominent 3' roof, 15' above the ground.

Protection

7 Bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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