Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 1,206 total · 10/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property! Details

Description

Like its neighbor to the right, Tout is one of the best 5.12s at Shelf, offering unforgettable movement on flawless stone. Despite the glaring similarities, this route is quite a bit different than Bete Noir, with shorter reaches between much smaller holds getting over the roof. This line is a also a bit more sustained, offering up a second technical crux just below the chains.

Begin up the easy slab to a good stance below the roof. Take a few deep breaths, hike up your feet, and grope over the lip for the key pocket. Work the feet, get the other hand up, and commence an intense sequence of precise stabs for the small edges & pockets that lead up over the lip. Once your feet are established over the lip things ease considerably with a nice shake in the shallow dihedral. Continue with relative ease up the aesthetic dihedral, to a brown, rippled slab. Diminishing holds lead up the slab to a pair of shallow monos that provide one last chance to survey the terrain before the thin slab crux.

Location

Located 6' left of Bete Noir, this is the left of two routes surmounting a prominent 3' roof, 15' above the ground.

Protection

7 Bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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