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Routes in The Great Black North

Bete Noir S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Black Toe Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Borg, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Burnt Toast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Capital Outlay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chuana Chavaria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cold Feet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Datura S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Delilah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Don't Make Me Shave You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It's All Gone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laugh the Past Away S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Locutus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Magus, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pincher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resistance is Futile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skank to Crank S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Doubles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torch & Twang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Tout Tout de Suite S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tower of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Triage S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Dan Durland
Page Views: 712 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ben Schmitt on Oct 25, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This crag may be on Private Property! Details

Description

If the top bit of the climb was 60 feet long, and you didn't have to do the bottom of this route, The Magus would be the best climb at Shelf....

Begin with a long, chossy, and very dirty 5.10 pitch that follows about 9 bolts to the anchor below the large bulge. From here it's fun movement over slightly chossy underclings, pinches, monos, jugs, pinches and crimps through the power endurace bulge to the anchors.

All in all this route is a fun outting, and probably the "easiest" hard route at the area.

Location

The route starts just right of Crunch on the wall up and left of the Borg Boulder. It is the obvious, steep bulge that juts out overlooking the great black north.

Protection

About nine bolts to the first anchor, then 5 more to the top.

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
The movement & position on this line are totally rad. Easily the most exposed route at Shelf. It's too bad the first half of the bulge is rather chossy.

I didn't find the opening slab to be dirty, but it was somewhat spooky with a lot of loose-looking rock (though nothing broke on me). Nov 25, 2011